Blue sea add a battery dual battery setup . Show us yours

[C_Heath]

I only have one battery on my PAN but have 2 500 watt Amps, 6 cabin speakers, 4 tower speakers and a 12” sub. I want to add a battery and the blue sea add a battery for peace of mind that I won’t have to get a jump while on the water or worse, towed. We do a lot of setting with the radio on. That’s the only thing I plan to run when the boat is off. No other electronics. What’s the best way to wire that type of setup? Thanks.

[Chrisrog]

I don’t have this setup yet, but plan to do a similar project next winter. Blue Sea has a recommended wiring schematic with their product. I’ll be taking power off the second battery through a fuse to a distribution block. From there to my amps. I may add an additional accessory fused power block near the battery for future electrical loads (docking lights, air compressor, etc.) I’m also going to hardwire in a battery minder system. I haven’t worked out any details yet, such as where to put the second battery, amps, sub cabinet, etc. The existing battery box might get enlarged under the port side stern seat cushion, or I might cut in a new box to starboard that matches the one on port. Is that area under the floor full of flotation foam?

[C_Heath]

I don’t have this setup yet, but plan to do a similar project next winter. Blue Sea has a recommended wiring schematic with their product. I’ll be taking power off the second battery through a fuse to a distribution block. From there to my amps. I may add an additional accessory fused power block near the battery for future electrical loads (docking lights, air compressor, etc.) I’m also going to hardwire in a battery minder system. I haven’t worked out any details yet, such as where to put the second battery, amps, sub cabinet, etc. The existing battery box might get enlarged under the port side stern seat cushion, or I might cut in a new box to starboard that matches the one on port. Is that area under the floor full of flotation foam?

No foam that I can find. My amps and sub cover all of the area under the observers seat or else I would put both batteries and switch and all wiring there. I will have to also put the house battery under the port cushion. I don’t want to but neither do I want to move the Amps and sub either.

[bturner]

This is from my last boat.....

[functionoverfashion]

This has been discussed at length here, not that it's not worth revisiting, but if you poke around you'll find a lot of info on this topic. On my old boat I went through several iterations of dual battery setups, but one thing I found to work well was using a deep cycle as the "house" battery that you're using to play music, etc. while stopped. Starting batteries don't like to be drained down like that. I got 6-7 years out of both my deep cycle and starting battery using them that way in the old boat.

In my current boat, I finally used a battery isolator instead of ONLY a switch, so that both batteries will charge any time the engine is running, regardless of the switch position. I highly recommend this, as it's the low-maintenance route for sure. Sounds like you're going that direction, in any case.

I'm in the process of moving my batteries a bit right now actually. I found that with both on the port side, the boat listed to that side - not because of the batteries alone, but because people tend to sit on that side just due to the layout of the interior. So ironically, with both on the starboard side, the boat rides level with normal loads.

[jtryon]

this is the best one i've been able to find in my searches on the subject.

[functionoverfashion]

I think that's an adaptation of the diagram from BlueSea - it's not super easy to find on their website, it's on the actual product page: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../990310020.pdf

https://www.bluesea.com/products/765...ery_Kit_-_120A

But you get the idea there

[C_Heath]

I think that's an adaptation of the diagram from BlueSea - it's not super easy to find on their website, it's on the actual product page: http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../990310020.pdf

https://www.bluesea.com/products/765...ery_Kit_-_120A

But you get the idea there

Thanks, Ive seen many different ways to wire it but I guess I get lost. Good thing is that I only want to 2nd battery for emergency only. I dont need to run several things just the radio but still dont want to chance it with just one battery as my stereo system is pretty big and Im sure could drain the battery pretty quick. I wished Id spent more time in electronics class rather that sitting out in the car smoking weed lol.

[MLA]

this is the best one i've been able to find in my searches on the subject.

Its the best one to follow. It is an edited version Blueseas own schematic. However, there is one thing that did not get changed on that version. See where the "house loads" are connected to the cranking bank side of the switch, they should be connected to the "stereo batt."

[functionoverfashion]

Thanks, Ive seen many different ways to wire it but I guess I get lost. Good thing is that I only want to 2nd battery for emergency only. I dont need to run several things just the radio but still dont want to chance it with just one battery as my stereo system is pretty big and Im sure could drain the battery pretty quick. I wished Id spent more time in electronics class rather that sitting out in the car smoking weed lol.

I'd just draw that up on paper (or whatever) and post it here then, if you want a second look before you hook it all up, cut expensive battery cables, etc.

[jtryon]

are you all running the starter isolation wire? seems like a lot to remove it from the stock location and run back to the ACR. is it necessary for the ACR to work properly?

[C_Heath]

are you all running the starter isolation wire? seems like a lot to remove it from the stock location and run back to the ACR. is it necessary for the ACR to work properly?

I don’t know. I’ve not began wiring it. The diagram is vague.

[functionoverfashion]

are you all running the starter isolation wire? seems like a lot to remove it from the stock location and run back to the ACR. is it necessary for the ACR to work properly?

It's labeled as "optional" in the diagram. Its purpose is to ensure the batteries are NOT combined during starting, "to protect sensitive electronics from voltage sags and spikes" - however, I believe this would be the normal condition when the boat is off and you want to start it - the voltage in both batteries would be below the threshold to combine them.

So it may just be an added layer of protection, but probably not necessary in a relatively simple system. That's what I get from their info anyway.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../ChooseACR.pdf

[MLA]

The SI circuit is typically not needed. Just note, if you do make use of it, you are taking anything off the stock location and running it back to the ACR. You simply need to to trigger the SI terminal with a 12V cranking ONLY signal.

[jtryon]

The SI circuit is typically not needed. Just note, if you do make use of it, you are taking anything off the stock location and running it back to the ACR. You simply need to to trigger the SI terminal with a 12V cranking ONLY signal.

meaning, tap the 12v crank signal from the key and run that back to the start isolation terminal on the ACR?