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Boat Lift Cable

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  • #16
    I would be concerned about the cable coming off the sheeves - that is more angle than I personally am comfortable with... just my .02

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    • #17
      Add some cable wraps so they wind clean and do not get overlapped etc.

      Click image for larger version

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      • #18
        I would straighten the cables and somewhere I saw an engineering reason for doing that. Below is a bracket option from boat lift warehouse or purchase stainless u-bolts. The Lowes near me had stainless bow eyes rated at 5,000# each for cheap.
        Attached Files

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        • #19
          OK, so the OP is replacing the lift now so not much of this matters anymore but someone asked about the changes I made to my lift for the 230. Here are the photos:

          Click image for larger version

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          Before the upgrade, there was only one motor and pipe on the right side. A set of cables went directly down to the beams on the right, and then another set ran across just below the beam, went through a pulley, and then down to the beam on the left side.


          Click image for larger version

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          Almost done. We added a new motor and pipe on the left side. This, along with new beams, cables, and bunk boards doubled the lift capacity to 6000 pounds.

          -Charles

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          • #20


            I'd be curious to know how you came up with your 2,800lb rating. When my parents bought their lake house, their existing lift was a 3k lift per the maker of it. All we had to do to make it a 6k lift for the Nautuque was change bunk boards and brackets, and run a new cable with pulleys at top/bottom cutting the load lifted by the motor in half. The cradles were at capacity, the overhead mounting beams were fine (pair of 2x12 beams). You might be able to convert what you had with some new parts.

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