2008 SANTE Limp mode/Check Engine Light

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  • AnthonyB
    • Mar 2017
    • 8

    • Pennsylvania

    • 2016 G21 2008 210 Team (sold)

    #1

    2008 SANTE Limp mode/Check Engine Light

    Hi All,

    Primary question: what sensor causes CEL to come on, ECU to enter limp mode, but not flash an error on gauges with Oil/Temp readings within operational ranges?

    Boat is a 2008 SAN 210 Team, PCM 343, 1000+ hrs, my first CC =).

    Was enjoying a nice set this morning when engine went into limp mode. Restarted a couple times, any attempt to accelerate puts it back into limp. Not receiving any type of buzzer warning or flashing codes on Faria gauges. Just a solid check engine light and throttle will cut out whenever an attempt is made to accelerate with transmission engaged.

    Began noticing the prior evening that check engine light was remaining on (never flashing, just solid) at higher speeds/RPMs. I originally mistook this light for a Walter V-Drive low pressure warning, but I have since read this indicator was dropped when PCM began using their own V-Drive. Even when light was on, boat functioned normally, not sure what happened between night and the following morning.

    Engine oil level good (although close to a change interval), transmission fluid level good, V-Drive oil level good (pulled one fill/drain plug, appeared to be right at the threads, did not draw any out as I didn't have proper equipment but from the bit dribbling out appeared clear). All gauges I believe are functioning properly; oil pressure was building at higher RPMs (per gaugues), never dropped very low. Temp started low before reaching the middle of the dial then stayed there.

    After checking fluids I began playing at the dock with the transmission disengaged. When in neutral light is off. As lever gently moved forward but before RPMs increased, light would come on. I thought this in particular was puzzling, because just moving the lever caused the light to come on, even though engine had not yet begun building RPMs. When actually building RPMs light stayed on, again solid light no flashing. With transmission disengaged, was not having throttle cut out as it does when out on water.

    This is my second week using the boat for season, first weekend operated several hours at slow/towing speeds, no issues and never noticed light.

    Appreciate any suggestions on things to check, thank you.
  • bscott
    • Apr 2005
    • 188

    • Bolingbrook, IL

    • 2014 Sport Nautique 2000 Sport Nautique

    #2
    On the GT-40, there are two sensors each for oil pressure and temperature. One sensor is for the gauge, and the other sensor sends it into limp mode. So gauges will show correct/good readings, but the other sensor can fail and send it into limp mode. This may be true for the 343 as well.

    Comment

    • scottb7
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Aug 2011
      • 2198

      • Carson City, Nevada

      • 2014 G21 (Current) 2008 SANTE 210

      #3
      I think on 2008, at least, the sender unit(s) report to the ecu, and the ecu in turn reports to faria helmsman which simply display the values...

      Comment

      • Skidave
        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
        • May 2005
        • 697

        • York, PA

        • 2003 Air 206 Team Sold: 1979 Ski Nautique (Brown!)

        #4
        AnthonyB, where in PA are you? I'm South Central. If you are close by, I'm happy to lend a hand if time permits.

        Comment

        • AnthonyB
          • Mar 2017
          • 8

          • Pennsylvania

          • 2016 G21 2008 210 Team (sold)

          #5
          To add on to scottb7, I spoke with CC, temp would trigger a buzzer in my boat. No buzzer, so do not think it's a mismatch of sensors. I believe scottb7 has it correct that any sensor sends to ECU which transmits to the Helmsman/gateway box.

          Comment

          • AnthonyB
            • Mar 2017
            • 8

            • Pennsylvania

            • 2016 G21 2008 210 Team (sold)

            #6
            Follow-up:

            Can anyone confirm IF I have correctly identified and replace the bad sensor, will the ECU adjust accordingly and stop throwing the code that triggers limp? Does it take a certain number of engine cycles, or should it occur immediately?

            I'm trying to diagnose my issue without scanning the code. I understand that the code stays 'stored' in the ECU and that can only get cleared with a Diacom, but I want to confirm that so long as the bad sensor is replaced, that the ECU stops forcing the boat into limp.

            The lever movement triggering the CEL before engine began building revs, led me to diagnose as an issue with the TPC/TPS.

            I disconnected both battery terminals on each battery, left them off for ~30min, then tapped both sets of connectors together in attempt to discharge capacitor (read somewhere this is how they do it on cars). I read this can reset the ECU/clear any active or stored codes, not sure it did anything besides waste my time =P

            Reconnected the batteries, disconnected the throttle cable from the potentiometer, turned on the engine, then sat by the engine compartment and manually manipulated the lever on the potentiometer. Looking up towards the helm, the slightest pressure applied to the lever would turn on the CEL, when released CEL turns off after a few seconds.

            I ended up getting:
            https://www.nautiqueparts.com/produc...ometer-assy-2/

            I thought about only buying the TPS, however the part # does not match the PCM manual. My understanding is the entire potentiometer unit includes the correct TPS built into the assembly.

            Comment

            • AnthonyB
              • Mar 2017
              • 8

              • Pennsylvania

              • 2016 G21 2008 210 Team (sold)

              #7
              Update: Issue solved!

              Installed potentiometer, in that assembly is included a Throttle Control Position (TCP) Sensor, that I assume is the sensor that went bad.

              After install, turned on engine, without engaging transmission gently increased engine RPMs and CEL stayed off. Happy to report after a full weekend of riding never had the CEL return.

              Comment

              • charlesml3
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • Jan 2008
                • 2479

                • Lake Gaston, NC

                • 2022 G23

                #8
                Originally posted by AnthonyB View Post
                Update: Issue solved!

                Installed potentiometer, in that assembly is included a Throttle Control Position (TCP) Sensor, that I assume is the sensor that went bad.

                After install, turned on engine, without engaging transmission gently increased engine RPMs and CEL stayed off. Happy to report after a full weekend of riding never had the CEL return.
                That's good news and makes perfect sense. If the TCP sensor was bad, it would send a bogus signal just as you advanced the throttle. Thanks for updating with the solution!

                -Charles

                Comment

                • Skidave
                  Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                  • May 2005
                  • 697

                  • York, PA

                  • 2003 Air 206 Team Sold: 1979 Ski Nautique (Brown!)

                  #9
                  Good work!

                  Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

                  Comment

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