Originally posted by SusieStrunk
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That's great ! Try tightening the hose clamps with a nut driver or socket wrench and not a screw driver. I bet they'll stop dripping.
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Thank you so much! I just figured out how to use the sight. I dropped her in the lake and everything went well. I have small drips coming from hose connections, but I just need to put some muscle on it. Not the Gt40. I had water in the strainer and the temp hovered at 140. I didn't take her out of the dock area, due to looming darkness and my fear of gators. Lol
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Are you saying you can't turn the pulley on the raw water pump by hand? First off, is the belt tight to it? If so - good luck... If you've got the belt slack, and everything is dry, it's still pretty **** difficult to turn by hand, and frankly not that good for it (dry). I always check ease of shaft/pulley rotation mid-change when the impeller is out when it should spin pretty freely. I don't ever bother to try after the impeller is in.
Either put it on the hose or stick it in the water and fire it up (so long as you verify that the pump is on in the right direction (hose connections should be closest to the motor)). As charles mentions, if you have trouble remembering which way the pump installs, tape it, or sharpie a big arrow on it.
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Does that 94 have the GT-40 engine? I'm not sure why you wouldn't be able to turn it. Yea, it's going to be tight, it's supposed to be. But it should turn. A lot of people get all caught up on which way the impeller vanes "lean" when you put it in. It doesn't matter. If you get it wrong, they'll flip right around as soon as it turns. The front of the housing lines up with the back only one way so there's no way to get that wrong. Is it possible you just can't get enough leverage on the pulley to move it by hand?Originally posted by SusieStrunk View PostHi... while on this subject.... I'm a GIRL... long time nautique owner. I attempted my first impeller replacement last night. I studied it for weeks. Everything went well... but, I cannot turn the drive (clockwise) since I tightened up all the bolts. I had seen several people post that this had happened to them, but I just blew by all those posts... thinking that I wouldn't need that info. I took it all apart again.. and slowly noted how it was replaced... and every step was true to the directions most people followed. Shall I go ahead and get it into the water and fire her up anyway? I don't have access to a place for using my fake a lake. If the drive is "stuck" or frozen in some way... what could I expect to happen? Thank you!
If everything seems good, put it in the water and start it up. WATCH THE TEMP GAUGE. If it starts climbing way past normal, you know something is wrong. Assuming you do have the GT-40 engine, one of the most common problems people have is when the get to the part about putting the pump back in the boat. They put it in upside down. Don't ask me how I know.... I ended up sticking a piece of red tape on the top of my pump so I knew I had it in the right way.
-Charles
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Hi... while on this subject.... I'm a GIRL... long time nautique owner. I attempted my first impeller replacement last night. I studied it for weeks. Everything went well... but, I cannot turn the drive (clockwise) since I tightened up all the bolts. I had seen several people post that this had happened to them, but I just blew by all those posts... thinking that I wouldn't need that info. I took it all apart again.. and slowly noted how it was replaced... and every step was true to the directions most people followed. Shall I go ahead and get it into the water and fire her up anyway? I don't have access to a place for using my fake a lake. If the drive is "stuck" or frozen in some way... what could I expect to happen? Thank you!
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Change the strainer...its cheap. The plastic cracks and there is an o-ring on that too. Also I had no ball valve on the intake on my 1992 SN, but you might...make sure it is open.
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I'm all good to go, looks like originally had the pump upside down, then the belt was a loose, but I am pretty sure that priming it thru the bucket also helped. Appreciate all the advice, bring on summer!
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In the strainer, check to make sure that the gasket is in place, seated properly and not cracked. This is between the filter top and the bowl. These will fall out fairly easy and most often will not be noticed. Sometimes it may have fallen out during winterization or cleaning of the strainer and could be laying in the bilge. If this is missing, it will draw air and not water. Pumps are "lazy" and will pump the easiest thing possible, so if they can pump air, they will.
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So in this picture, you removed the strainer all together and the clear hose is sucking out of a bucket, through the trans cooler and then to the pump? And it worked and sucked the water very quickly? If that is the case, the only thing left is the shut off for the water intake, or there was a massive air leak in one of the strainer connections. Check the ball valve, in the open position the handle would be parallel to the fitting.Originally posted by erikj View Post
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Originally posted by t.franscioniWater pickup and ball valve (without the On/off handle installed)
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Just a thought if it hasn't been resolved yet but my thermostat seized on my 2002 last year that had very similar symptoms to what your describing. Replaced the thermostat, good to go.
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hmmm not sure I'm following what your describing is happening with the bucket test but if your saying "it has to be before the water filter" as in the plug is before the water filter then I'd say your ball valve is off because that's the only component inbetween your way pickup on bottom of hull and your water filter.
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Those two open connection is where the filter went
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