GT40 Starting Issue - New batteries (this year), New Starter, New Starter Solenoid

[acombj]

I have a 2000 SAN with the GT40. Two weeks ago, the fuel pump went out while getting out of the marina (couldn't hear the low pressure fuel pump prime with the ignition on). One of the dealers at the marina confirmed the issue, replaced the low pressure pump (wanted to charge me $170 to put it on a trailer for me to install) and they said it started right up and ran fine. Go to pick up the boat and now just getting click, click, click while trying to start. They put it on the trailer and now I'm working the problem.

Scenario - When I turn the ignition on, I hear the fuel pump prime and all my electronics turn on as expected. As I push and hold the start button from the keypad, all I get in click click click click (for as long as I hold start).

Steps I've gone through
- Verify voltage and connections on the batteries (both new this year). Both ~ 12.9 V
- Checked all fuses
- Tried starting on my cranking, deep cycle & both (same issue)
- Replaced starter
- Verified there is 12V to the thicker gauge wire on the solenoid on the starter (even if ignition off)
- When cranking, there is only 1.5V to the smaller gauge wire on the bottom connection of the starter solenoid
- Replaced the ford starter solenoid (http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-8647-m...smr6013.aspx); I believe some people have referred to this as a relay (not sure if there is an additional 'starter relay')
- Still 1.5V to the smaller gauge wire on the bottom connection of the starter solenoid and still click click click click

Now I'm kind of running out of ideas. A couple quick questions and / or any guidance would be greatly appreciated
- Is there a separate 'relay' for the starter other than the starter solenoid I've already replaced?
- On the smaller gauge wire on the starter solenoid, should I have more than 1.5V when cranking? I thought so and is the reason why I replaced the starting solenoid; but the new one didn't change the voltage when cranking...

Thanks!
Jeff

[t.franscioni]

Did you verify your boat is in neutral? There's a neutral safety switch on your tranny. If your throttle is not in neutral or your neutral switch is bad that might be causing your problem? Not sure if solenoid would still "click" though if it was a neutral switch issue...

[acombj]

Yep, the boat is in neutral. If I put it in gear, the safety switch activates and I won't get the click click click.

Any other recommendations?

[t.franscioni]

Sounds like a wiring issue then... If no one else has any ideas on what it could be then maybe send pic of your starter and solenoid to show us how you have them wired.... I guess a couple other easy things that come to mind would be your 60 amp starter circuit breaker that is mounted next to the ECM. Can you press it to reset? Also your starter ground is it grounded to your aluminum engine mount? If so try disconnecting it and sanding the aluminum until it shines and then reattach. Aluminum forms an oxide layer naturally that can insulate the ground connection.

can you confirm the starter is in fact not spinning when you crank? Maybe it's spinning but just not engaging the flywheel?

[brettmcox]

If it ran before you took into the shop, and before the fuel pump when out... then I would guess that the shop would have pulled the battery (to be safe). after they put it back in. Check the post clamps on the battery I replaced my ground this year (just the post end) with one from a car audio store. I think I would rip the post off the battery before it would slip post.

Fast clicking is a ground issue. To test get a jumper cabe and clamp ot block and to battery.

If still clicking check the positive post.

If still clicking check the bolts holding the slave/starter/ ford relay next to computer. Might be dropping ground there

[dan1166]

Hello; I am thinking that 1.5 volts is not enough voltage to engage a 12 volt solenoid. You have to trace the wire back to the starter button, and see were the voltage drop is occurring. Take a jumper cable from the positive side of the battery, disconnect the small wire at the solenoid, and touch the terminal at the solenoid. It should energize the solenoid and engage the starter, because you know there is 12 volts directly from the battery going to that terminal. Let me know if this works.

[acombj]

Thanks All... Got it back to the shop and found the issue.

brettmcox, you were correct as it was a ground issue. When I inspected all the posts and studs on the batteries, I simply checked the connections and made sure they were tight. Then, most of my attention was on the cranking battery. However, after you post, you made me think to recheck as my cranking batter share the ground w/ my accessory battery. After looking at the negative battery terminal on the post, it still had a solid connection but as i pulled back the flex tubing I could immediately see the copper mostly off the battery terminal.

Took the boat back out to the water and running great. Plus a new starter and starter relay.

Little upset at the marina as they not only caused the issue by yanking on the batter cable to get the terminal off the post but walked through all their work and ensured me this was a new issue.

dan1166, I haven't checked yet but I'm curious what voltage is at the starter solenoid now that I've addressed the issue. Would like to see that it's more than 1.5 volts.