Its the fuel pickup inside the tank at the end of the fuel line. Follow the fuel line to the tank and unscrew the fitting. Again, these OEM fuel lines have an inside plastic lining that deteriorates over time. Mine obstructed fuel flow only at higher RPM (>3000). Changing the fuel hose solved my issue and was difficult to diagnose.
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I'm stuck. I have pulled of the line going to the inline filter that connects at the fuel tank. There is a little ball valve in there. Looks pretty clean. I have tried pulling up the feed line that goes into the tank, but it is not coming out. It seems to stop at the very end of the tube. I am not sure if something is attached or it is fluted. But it is not coming out? Are you sure the valve is not at the top of the tank (the ball valve mentioned). If not how the heck do I get that line out?Originally posted by H2O View PostIts the fuel pickup inside the tank at the end of the fuel line. Follow the fuel line to the tank and unscrew the fitting. Again, these OEM fuel lines have an inside plastic lining that deteriorates over time. Mine obstructed fuel flow only at higher RPM (>3000). Changing the fuel hose solved my issue and was difficult to diagnose.
Here is a pic of the ball valve at the top of the tank.
Thank you very much for your help!
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Didn't fix it... after reading some more what are the chances it could be one of the following, and how could I tell?Originally posted by ericchile View PostNow to the lake to test....
Low pressure pump?
Switch where the safety lanyard is.
Engine timing.
Oil Pressure sensor.
Will post video of the boat behavior soon.
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If fuel line pressure was good, I would suspect an O2 sensor reading out of range and the ECM shutting down rpms. Really sounds like limp mode, especially if engine runs fine then just suddenly cuts to low rpm. No sputtering or misfire, just shuts down. But you should get a check engine warning when the ECM evokes limp mode. I would read the codes at this step even though no warnings.
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Sorry for the poor wording. The ball valve is the anti-siphon valve. I wanted you to check the end of the hose in the tank for any gunk also. Low pressure fuel pumps rarely fail (my old pump is now sitting in the garage since being replaced with a new one-did not solve my particular issue at the time). It seems a failing LP pump sometimes trips a breaker (a diagnostic clue) before it actually fails. Yours sounds like a fuel delivery problem so maybe an electrical issue feeding the fuel pumps??? Check all electrical connections starting at the battery.
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60 psi at 1000 or 3500 RPM. Is 3500 out of the water good enough load or should I put in the water to make sure? I have never been able to reproduce this issue out of the water.... But I imagine that if the fuel system was having an issue it would show it self at 3500 rpm right?Originally posted by jhersey29 View Post57 to 62 psi under load. Low pressure pump 7 to 9 psi. There are.good videos on YouTube on how to check fuel.pressure.
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Your engine is a catalized version, correct? Don't those use O2 sensors? If so, maybe one of those is going bad or failed? That would give the ECM bad data and could cause that problem...
I don't know, so take this post for what it's worth!
Good luck solving the problem...2008 230 TE-ZR6
1999 Pro Air Python-sold and moved away :-(
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Figured I would follow up on this thread.
After replaced both fuel pumps and filters etc etc. I finally broke down and took my SANTE to the dealer 2 hours away to see if there were any codes despite the check engine light not being on. After two weeks of it sitting in their lot (they are busy this time of the year), they read the code and found it to be the throttle position Sensor. $400 later and the problem seems fixed.
Why PCM makes it so difficult to read codes is beyond me. I could have fixed it for $140, but I spend about a grand on it. I have an extra high and low fuel pumps now :-)
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THANKS!!! I appreciate the follow up... It seems more often than not, that people come look for advice, then disappear.... leaving the rest to wonder what happened.Originally posted by ericchile View PostFigured I would follow up on this thread.
After replaced both fuel pumps and filters etc etc. I finally broke down and took my SANTE to the dealer 2 hours away to see if there were any codes despite the check engine light not being on. After two weeks of it sitting in their lot (they are busy this time of the year), they read the code and found it to be the throttle position Sensor. $400 later and the problem seems fixed.
Why PCM makes it so difficult to read codes is beyond me. I could have fixed it for $140, but I spend about a grand on it. I have an extra high and low fuel pumps now :-)
Glad you are back on the water!
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I agree, although I have not had any issues that have required pulling codes, with the number of people hours away from a dealer they should make it as easy as possible to diagnose. This could only benefit all parties involved.Originally posted by ericchile
Why PCM makes it so difficult to read codes is beyond me. I could have fixed it for $140, but I spend about a grand on it. I have an extra high and low fuel pumps now :-)
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
2013 SAN 230
2006 SSN 210 (SOLD)
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