Anyone have a pdf or link to an idiot's guide for pulling and replacing a Nautique prop? Anything special about the process on a Nautique?
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Fairly straightforward.
1 - pull the cotter key
2 - loosen the prop nut but don't take it all the way off
3 - install a C type puller and put some tension on the prop
4 - tap the end of the bolt of the puller with a hammer until the prop lets go, the vibration makes it happen so give it at least 10 good whacks before you tighten the puller
5 - as soon as it breaks free pull the nut, then remove the prop
Don't hit the prop with a hammer, don't try to beat on the prop nut because it's soft brass and won't do much to release the prop but it will become an ugly mushroom that you won't be able to reuse.
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Ok you know what is throwing me off is the key that is talked about in the instructions. Can someone help me out with that?
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The key is a long rectangular piece of metal that fits into a groove on shaft and the keyway on your prop.1998 Ski Nautique (Red/Silver Cloud), GT-40, Perfect Pass Stargazer 8.0z (Zbox), Acme #422, Tunable Rudder.
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you won't really see it until you pull the prop off and a little metal piece goes klink on the driveway (and don't do this somewhere you might drop it and not find it.)Originally posted by east tx skier View PostThe key is a long rectangular piece of metal that fits into a groove on shaft and the keyway on your prop.
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The corrosion is moot IMO. The props is in contact with the shaft as well. You want the soft key material that will shear and save your shaft and guts on the other end. Probably the prop is toast no matter what. Might as well stop the damage there. Besides, who has sheared a brass key and ruined a day trip that would otherwise been saved by a ss key?Originally posted by georges View PostAT,
You've got me curious. Why the changeout to brass? I'm thinking the shaft is SS and with a brass prop, you've want the key to be SS to prevent any galvanic corrosion. Also the Stainless key would be more difficult to shear.
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