'00 SANTE Ballast Re-Do

[TexasAg01]

Guys,

Hope everyone is doing well. We had our first warm day here in Dallas this weekend and it got me antsy thinking about the upcoming season. St Bernard’s sports also had a huge Winter/Summer sale this weekend and I picked up 2 350lb sacs for $50. If you're in Dallas, swing by their Outlet. They're doing 50-65% off all of their wake gear (ropes, boards, surfers, skates, etc) I've been looking to rework my existing ballast system due to more focus on wake surfing last year and this gave me a good opportunity. I do have a couple of questions.

Current ballast setup is the OEM Tanks in the rear compartments with center 500 lb bag. Everything is currently run through 2 800 gal/hr aerator pumps (one for fill, one for empty) located under the motor in the rear. Water inlet is the original water scoop installed by CC. I like this setup but it takes more time than I'd prefer to fill and empty.

New setup will keep the OEM Tanks and center ballast but also add the two new 350 lb sacs I picked up over the weekend. I'm planning on laying the 350 lb sacs on the tanks in the rear (assuming this won't crush the tanks). I've covered my tanks with a 3/4 inch piece of particle board covered in marine carpet to protect them. The sacs will only be used either when we're surfing or when I go out with just a couple of buddies and don't have the additional weight of extra people. I'm thinking I will pick up two Jabsco Water Puppies and use one for each side (tank and bag) in the back. I plan on putting a valve on the bag so it will only fill when needed. I'll keep the aerator pumps and use them for the center bag.

My questions lie in how to get water to the new Jabsco pumps. I'm good at working on the boat but I've never drilled through the hull. To be honest, I'm slightly worried I might mess something up. Do any of y'all have insight on this? Should I go through the bottom by the rudder or should I put the inlets under the teak platform on the back? Also, would you recommend a plastic inlet or should I go with brass? I had thought brass but I may be wrong.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks!

[bchesley]

If you do a search for super sport ballast systems there will be several great threads on this topic. I personally copied what the new boats come with to a T. I figured if the engineers that designed the boat thought it worked well that way why reinvent the wheel. But, having said that there is always more than one way to do it. What ever you decide just make sure that safety is taken into consideration, ie ball valves at all underwater thru hulls fittings.

[WakeSlayer]

I like the intakes under the deck. I like having separate intakes for each pump for setting up and switching sides surfing. I would not bother with a valve between the tanks and bags. You would have to add additional vents if you did so. Just shut the pump off when you get the tank filled before it starts filling the bag. I like the idea of still filling your belly sac with the old system, just re-route the hoses and use the aerator. Brad is correct in stating to use ball valves at each intake. Safety first. Drilling holes is no big deal, but measure 47 times before you do it. There is plenty of room on the transom to drill intakes. The reason I like them back there is I can drain on the fly, and adjust my wave shape by dumping a few gallons while the surfer is out there.

[TexasAg01]

Thanks guys. I like the idea of having the intakes on the back as well. Seems it would be easier to winterize...and since Texas actually had a winter this year, I'll have to be more concerned about that. As far as the intakes, did you go with stainless, copper, or plastic? By having them on the back, are you able to fill while driving? I plan on leaving the stock scoop on the bottom to feed the center bag so I'll need two intakes on the back. As far as drilling, should I start with a small pilot hole and work my way up? I'm concerned about splintering the fiberglass and don't want a mess on my hands. Buxton Marine already knows me pretty well.

Slayer, I shouldn't worry about the valves between the tanks and sacs? Will they drain okay without putting a valve between them? I wasn't sure how the Jabsco pumps would do in that situation.

[WakeSlayer]

I used plastic thru hulls, and put stainless screens on the ends (for live wells). For drilling, figure out your size. mask it off well, and use a hole saw. let the saw do the work. After, just hit the edge with a small dremel to prevent any cracking. Seal the thru-hull with 3M 5200 (or 4200) and you are done. All you do to add the bags to the tanks is take the vent line off the tank, that becomes your fill for the bag, and then vent from the other end of the back to the vent fitting that you removed the hose from in the first place. The Jabscos act as their own check valves so it won't siphon out. You cannot fill from under the deck while under power, but the Jabscos are so fast, you won't care.

these are the thru hulls I used

http://www.marineengine.com/products...php?in=1143886

these are the screens I installed.

http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/pro...MESH+STRAINERS


You bring up a great point about winterizing. I can winterize my ballast system in about 2 minutes a side. I have a plastic fitting that threads on to the thru hull and is on a small section of hose. Stick that in a jug of marine AF hit the switch, and you are done by the time you can get back to the switch. Despite being in TX, you should always winterize.

[vr6mole]

I would go with brass thru hulls all the way up to the brass valve. Plastic after that is fine. I wouldn't want to have to deal with the plastic cracking and sinking the boat.

I'd also recommend pulling the intakes on the bottom of the boat (without disrupting paddle wheel if you have perfect pass)

Putting on the transom doesn't really make sense since you can't fill while on plane.

You can still drain while on plane if they are on the bottom esp if you are using jabsco pumps since they will operate at a higher pressure then aerator pumps.

[bchesley]

I wanted mine on the bottom to drain and fill while under way also. I have no issues what so ever emptying under way with them on the bottom. I too second the marine bronze hardware as its pretty bulletproof.

[WakeSlayer]

I am curious on the underside thru hulls. First, I do think the biggest reason that they have scuppers on them to fill underway, is because they had to with the old aerator systems. I assume you guys have flat thruhulls? I can see them draining fine in that case, but do they fill if you are actually going across the lake? I would think the pump would have a hard time priming up, keeping it that way, and taking water up when you are speeding across it.
Not disagreeing on the bronze vs plastic. that is just what we had avaialble at the time, and have had no issues. I really like the thread on caps, and those make it a snap to winterize.

[TexasAg01]

vr6mole and bchesley,

Any recomendations on where to drill those holes if I'm mounting on the bottom? My boat is in storage but plan on pulling it out next weekend to start the modifications. I was thinking behind the paddle wheel to the left of the drive shaft. Also, would you go with 3/4" or 1" inlets? I see the jabsco pumps are 1/2 fnpt fittings so I wasn't sure if 1" would be overkill. I'll photo all of this for future users.

Thanks for your advice thus far.

[vr6mole]

Your Sig says you have a SANTE. I think all team editions have a pump/thru hull for each tank. Do you have 2 trhu hulls near the engine?

[TexasAg01]

The 2000 SANTE only had one inlet which is a scoop. This is currently feeding my entire ballast system using aerator pumps. Once converted, this will only go to feed the center sack. I'd like to put in two new inlets, one for each jabsco to fill the rear tanks and bags just not sure how big (3/4" or 1") or where to put them. I'd hate to weaken the structure of the boat just to add convenience.

[WakeSlayer]

Putting a couple small holes in the hull is not going weaken any structure in your boat.

[TexasAg01]

Good stuff. I had no clue...never attempted something like this so I appreciate you guys input.

[bchesley]

I have timed them both ways and sitting or on plane at 25mph they fill will within 30 seconds of each other.

[bchesley]

I forgot to add, I recommend using the factory thru hull parts. They are working flawless on thousands of boats since the switch in 2006.