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  • SV211 Project

    Hi all,

    I’m a relatively new poster on PN, but have trolled here for a while, researching before we bought our last Nautique, and for some assistance after.

    When I was growing up we always had outboards. Summers in Western Canada are relatively short, but we made the most of them. We used to put the boat in the lake within a week of the ice being gone (~2nd week of May) and pull it out when it started getting close to the freezing mark around the first or second week of October. It was getting time for a new boat a few years ago, but we were forced when we had some motor issues that we had issues tracing without major investment. We couldn’t complain, as the hourmeter on the boat showed about 2400 hours and we bought it new.

    Today, I have a young family with three boys ranging from 1-7. I also have a few nieces in the same age range. The kids aren’t sure what they want to do, so we needed something that could be a jack of all trades – ski/board..even tube. We have a cabin at the lake, and draft is an issue. Our needs for a boat are a bit different than a lot – our lake is small. We leave the dock for a ski or board run and get dropped off back at the dock again. Our lake is about 1.5 miles long by about a mile wide. We rarely spend much more than a couple of hours at a time on the boat.

    I knew the day was coming where we needed to find a new boat and I was looking forward to it. I researched and researched for probably close to 2 years. For our needs, we didn’t need a huge boat. I still like to ski and board. I was quite set on finding a nice and newer MC X1. I found a nice one and went out to take a look at it. It was smaller than even I felt we could deal with and started searching again and opened my search to a Bu VLX, Supreme 212, a Moomba Outback V, and a Nautique 211. They all had to be in the 2003-2008 age range as that was our budget and for how short the summers are, you can find a number of boats up here with 200ish hours on them in that vintage.

    First boat we took a good look at was a Nautique 226. Big boat, had a ZR6, which was nice, but seemed tough to get the wake dialed. Stole a few rides behind some neighbours at the lake with a Moomba and a Supreme. I know they have a reputation as being “cheaper”, but in all honesty, for our needs, no issues.

    As a bit of a surprise, I found a Nautique 211 in fall. Fella didn’t want to store it and he was only 5 miles away from me. Boat ended up being in really good shape, but was missing a few things I wish it had. Price was right though, boat was super clean and the money allowed me some upgrades. So, end of 2018, we end up with a 04 SV211. Boat has an Excalibur 330 in it and no ballast, but previous owner spent some money on bags and audio. Boat travels on a single axle Ramlin, which I sort of hoped would have been a tandem, but we don’t tow very much/far and it’s made it this many years without issue.


    Before taking it out to the water, I find the boat came with a 380 prop. After doing some research, I found an excellent condition 644 here on PN at a great price in the classifieds. Get the prop figure out it’s keyed. Didn’t have a 3 or 4 jaw puller that I felt comfortable with, so built my own puller at with on the CNC.

    Get the boat on the water, find we are missing a speed reading on the Perfect Pass. Luckily for me, previous owner had issues with the gateway box and had to do a full gauge upgrade with included PP Stargazer. Right off the bat, found a dead antenna. Dealer who completed the work was awesome and swapped it out without issue and we’re back in business.

    I’ve had some trouble finding information at times while doing a few things on the boat and thought it would be worthwhile to start a thread that may help others out. I’ll detail some of the work I’ve done to the boat over the past year and for the next few months.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    The back platform was fairly weathered. I doubt it ever had any love given to it. I’ve never worked with teak before. I read a lot about it and chose to not sand it for fear of sanding too much off and exposing any screws. Using stripper, I stripped the platform a few times to make sure we removed anything that was left.

    My local Home Depot had Watco Teak stain. I gave it a try and it came out quite well…initially. The boat sat in the water for a few months last year and while the sun North of the border isn’t as hard on things as further South, the teak stain sure didn’t last very long. Once water got onto it, it almost showed a few bubbles of discoloration. Unfortunately, multiple coats of stain didn’t last very long and the stain on the deck lasted only a few weeks. Quite disappointing, but back to the drawing board this year.

    On a side note, when stained, there is little that beats a nice Teak platform!
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #3
      Next project was the trailer. Someone cranked a corner too tight and dinged the starboard plywood steps. I need to fix that this year and never had a chance to get to it.

      The single axle trailer is mechanically sound. I went through the bearings last season and the previous owner must have had someone look at them as they were freshly repacked and bearing preload was spot on.

      I didn’t care for the turnbuckle tie down at the front of the trailer. Our normal launch ramp is relatively shallow and you need to set the boat a fair ways out to get it all the way on. In some research, I found a number of people had added winches to their trailers. I had some scrap pieces laying around and cut and welded myself a solution.

      I used 2x2x3/16” tube. I wish I would have went to a 2x3x3/16” – it would have worked better. I added a few pieces of ½” round as softeners for the winch strap as I didn’t want to take any chances in snagging the strap on a burr on the tube. I pretty much cut out a 2” piece of the upright with a cutoff saw and inserted the new tube back in with ¼” weld all around. A friend of mine has a powdercoating shop, so he painted it for me. It came out quite nice and worked really well. Winch placement with the handle is quite sensitive. If you take this on, measure winch placement carefully. I believe winch is a 1500lbs winch and it has no issue pulling the boat up.

      Tomorrow I'll start to go through the audio.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by GeoffW; 04-06-2020, 03:29 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        In terms of Audio, the boat came with a fairly decent audio setup. Factory Clarion unit is still in place (with a rocking 6 disk changer!). Former owners added a single 13" Kicker L7 powered by a 1000W x 1 JL amp. 4 Main Cabin speakers were replace with 6" Rockfrd Punch Coaxials, powered by a 75W x 4 Rockfrod Prime amp. Front bow speakers were disconnected.

        Tower speakers were 7" Clarions which I imagine were not original, but added at the same time as the boat was bought.

        First thing I noticed was how hard it was to get balance with the sub under the spotters seat. It was being choked in there. Flipping the same up added a fair amount of bass output. I searched for quite a while for a vent for that area but couldn't find anyhting I really liked, or really many options for a spot where I felt the fibreglass wouldn't take some stress. I ended up building my own. UHMW outer frame, with a 16ga aluminum sub frame routered inset and wrapped in heavy screen door material. I built vents like this regularily for snowmobiles and they hold up to tree riding without issue. After installing, sub sounded alot better.
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          Time to tackle the audio. I wanted to add the front speakers back in. I thought about using the Headunit to control balance to get by, but I found I couldn't with the stock HU and it woul dhave drove me nuts later.

          Popped the covers off of the speakers and found them *slightly* weathered. Wiring was clipped, not sure why they weren't just disconnected instead of clipping them at the speaker. Not big deal, the OEM wiring is smaller than I'd like and I have a pile of heavier 14 gauge speaker wiring laying around.
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm a sucker for having matching parts...despite the cost unfortunately. To add the fronts, I needed more amp channels. Moreso, I wanted independent volume control over my tower speakers. Hence, looked around and ordered some matching RF Punch Coaxials for the front. I also found a electronics shop closing out and bought another matching RF Prime amp, new in the box, for $125.
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              I wanted to add a bit of bling to the boat, so prior to redoing the front speakers, I looked at adding LED light rings. I couldn't bring myself to spending the money some of the online vendors are asking. Plus, I'm a fabricator at heart, so I built my own. They are wired into the courtesy light circuit on the rest of the boat. Total cost of fab - $100 for 6 speakers.
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                Tower speakers were swapped out from the original Clarions. We can only use a boat up here for 3-4 months of the year and I didn't want to go overboard with a $1,000+ set of towers. I ended up with a set of 8" Rockinville Enclosures with a pair of Kicker KM8's. Enclosures are acceptable, wiring layout was poor, and the mounting bolts need loctite to ensure they don't loosen up, but they do the job. For connections, I used Neutrik 4 pole connectors for both speaker and LED wiring. These are powered from a RF Prime 300x4 amp.
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  While I was under the jump seat running wires in every direction, I decided to do some rewiring to simplify life and clean things up. It was getting to be a bit of a mishmash of cabling. Plus, I needed another spot for an amp. Previous amps were mounted to the top and back of the sub box and were a bugger to adjust without some disconnecting. I decided to build a new cleaner looking panel for the amps and distribution. Local fabric store has pretty close to bang on color matched speaker felt. I couldn't figure out how to attach the top of the panel to the boat. I ended up testing and going with a Fast set PL adhesive to connect marine grade plywood to the hull. The lower portion of the panel sits against a channel and allows a nice space for hiding wiring. Pretty happy with how it came out for using some scrap plywood around the shop.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    More please. WOW! You must have a CNC or something to do your routing and fab work. Looks great.


                    Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

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                    • #11
                      Great thread, and nice work!

                      I need to add a vent like you did for the sub in my 210. It is really muffled under the observers seat.

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                      • #12
                        Here is one already made up if you don;t have the means to make it yourself.

                        https://www.roswellmarine.com/product/compartment-vent/

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by MrJake View Post
                          More please. WOW! You must have a CNC or something to do your routing and fab work. Looks great.


                          Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique
                          Thanks for the comments!

                          The light rings were done by CNC router. I don't have one, but I'm an engineer by trade and have worked with a number of 3D modelling programs for 20+ years now. I do all the design work and create files and send them off to others to cut.

                          The plywood I actually did by hand. Spent a few nights marking and drawing everything out and once I had everything marked out, I kept clamping and moving 2x4's as guides for my plunge router.

                          Another source for the vent is through Earmark Audio - they had a few sizes listed in there last year when I looked.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by GeoffW View Post
                            ....popped the covers off of the speakers and found them *slightly* weathered.
                            Yup. That's about what my speakers looked like before I swapped them. But they were still connected and kinda playing... :/
                            2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
                            1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
                            1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
                            Bellevue WA

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                            • #15
                              Got a bit more work done this weekend. Funny, even though I think I have all of the parts I need, and have planned this fairly carefully, I"m almost alway smissing some 25 cent piece!

                              For the new amp layout, I wanted seperate volume control for the tower speakers. There are probably easier ways to do it, but I ran a couple of pairs of RCA's under and around the bow seats up to the dash so I could mount the tower volume control at the helm. This is a pretty simple LC-1 volume controller mounted to a bracket I bent from a piece of scrap steel I had laying around.
                              Attached Files

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