I'm amazed at how fast this project is moving along. I figure it will move even quicker once the glass work is completed.
Most projects seem to stall out by this point because of lack of resources (time and/or money), but you seem to be on schedule for a late spring/early summer splash date.
Awesome project! Keep up the good work!
P.S. If I'm ever in Austin I would love to take a ride in this boat.
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Originally posted by SilentSeven View Postah...got it. totally makes sense. I would have guessed that you wouldn't have to had to patch the factory hole..maybe enlarge or add a second. thanks for the explanation!
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ah...got it. totally makes sense. I would have guessed that you wouldn't have to had to patch the factory hole..maybe enlarge or add a second. thanks for the explanation!
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Originally posted by t.franscioni View PostWhat did your glass guy use to fill the bow top deck screw holes? I was thinking just the little 1/4” strand thickener mixed with poly resin. I wanna do that also I’m never going to use the button on bow cover.
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Originally posted by t.franscioni View PostWhat did your glass guy use to fill the bow top deck screw holes? I was thinking just the little 1/4” strand thickener mixed with poly resin. I wanna do that also I’m never going to use the button on bow cover.
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I've also selected the Seadek color combo.
Beach Sand base
Terra Brown top
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What did your glass guy use to fill the bow top deck screw holes? I was thinking just the little 1/4” strand thickener mixed with poly resin. I wanna do that also I’m never going to use the button on bow cover.
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Couple updates:
1. Fiberglass work is moving along nicely. Once all of the deck repairs are complete and newly laid fiberglass is cured, the deck will be removed from the hull once more, then re-sprayed inside and out so that even when you lay under the dash or observer seat, no raw fiberglass will be seen. Everything will be finished out. For the floors, short strand fiberglass filler is being used to flatten everything out. Then a layer of glass will be laid down to seal everything in. There are 10 ribs that run vertically up the sides of the bow. Once the deck is removed again, those will be cut out and replaced. The rear ribs were reinforced and re-glassed.
2. The engine was run a couple more hours on the dyno. A little more timing and some tuning brought the horsepower up but the more data that was logged, the more it became apparent that engine was starving for air. My goal with the rebuild of this engine was to maintain the GT40 intake so that anyone who looked under the engine cover would know what PCM engine this boat shipped with. I didn't think the stock intake would be such a bottle neck but the ecm and dyno don't lie. When I thought about the money spent thus far on the engine, I could no longer put form over function. I decided to make the swap to a Holley High-Ram EFI intake. Throttle body size is moving from a 70mm to 92mm. New fuel rails and shorter distributor are part of the package. Hopefully the engine will be up and running next week.
3. I've started talking with Ron Tanis from Ski Boat Parts Online about him doing the engine and trans installation. I am still deciding if I am going to a 1 1/8" prop shaft. If so, he will also be replacing the strut. After watching his video's online, he's the man for the job.
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Originally posted by bturner View PostPeak HP in a tow boat is useless unless you plan this to be a barefoot boat, in which case you have the wrong hull and propulsion type to start with. Those torque numbers in the low range are really nice though. That's something you'll feel.
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Peak HP in a tow boat is useless unless you plan this to be a barefoot boat, in which case you have the wrong hull and propulsion type to start with. Those torque numbers in the low range are really nice though. That's something you'll feel.
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