trailer clearance question

**iceman991** · 03-05-2007, 02:43 AM

clearance

.............when you back into the driveway try coming in at an angle instead of straight in, that should take care of the problem, if not make more of an angle.................... Yellow_Flash_Colorz:

**NautiqueJeff** · 03-05-2007, 07:12 AM

RE: clearance

Sounds like you could use some Prop Guard Rollers.

**chris196** · 03-05-2007, 07:50 AM

Thanks for the ideas.
I tried every angle I could and coming from both directions, but no joy.
Those casters look interesting, but my prop guard is not made of as substantial metal as the trailer pictured in that thread. I don't think it would hold the weight.
However, the idea of blocks to raise the trailer may be the right answer. I'll have to do some measuring and see how that looks.

Thanks,
Chris

**east tx skier** · 03-05-2007, 10:33 AM

I struggled with this problem for a couple of years. Even when coming in at an angle. Laying some 1" thick plywood under the tires when backing up helped, but was a pain.

Got the marine rollers from http://www.pakindustries.com/ Put a new prop guard on there as well as the original one on the trailer was Mickey Mouse. The new one was 1/2" solid steel.

They tend to score the driveway a bit, so I had a 2" lift put on my trailer (also entailed getting the axle aligned and having the pins welded in place just in case I ever dropped it off the back of a boat ramp). This helped significantly, with keeping the prop guard off the driveway. The guy used custom blocks to do this. I've heard of others going with more concave springs with similar results.

The final step was putting a little more of a drop hitch on the tow vehicle to get the trailer tongue down a bit.

Now if I take it down at just the right angle, I don't scrape.

On the road, the rollers are tough as nails and have kept my trailer free from damage.

Here's a picture with just the primer.

Good luck.

**chris196** · 03-05-2007, 12:36 PM

east_tx,
thanks for the info your trailer.

Looking at the picture, I see you have clearance between the rudder/prop and the prop protector on the trailer.
I'm curious if anyone knows what's the minimum that clearance should be? Obviously, you want some clearance, but is 1", 2", 5" the right answer.
I have 5" on mine and I wonder if that trailer has some generic qualities. Did they build one trailer that fits an MC, Malibu, CC, tige 20' inboard. Maybe some of those boats have less clearance and they made one trailer to handle all. Just thinking out loud here.

Chris

**ffmedic74** · 03-05-2007, 01:08 PM

I have made this mod to my last 2 boats. Its worked great! I dont have a pic of the second trailer mod, but basically put the horizontal directly under the vertical member to transfer the load better. The wheels were purchased from Midwest caster in Cincinnati OH. Do a local yahoo search for their #. Its a 3 " wheel with delron bearing. The nut end of the bolt was tack welded to be able to change wheeels out if needed.

**brodie** · 03-05-2007, 01:17 PM

My driveway has a fairly steep angle also, but if I cut the corner and drive on the lawn with most of my vehicle and boat, I don't scrape. I basically take about a 45 degree angle. My lawn holds up pretty well considering.

**east tx skier** · 03-05-2007, 03:08 PM

Originally posted by chris196

east_tx,
thanks for the info your trailer.

Looking at the picture, I see you have clearance between the rudder/prop and the prop protector on the trailer.
I'm curious if anyone knows what's the minimum that clearance should be? Obviously, you want some clearance, but is 1", 2", 5" the right answer.
I have 5" on mine and I wonder if that trailer has some generic qualities. Did they build one trailer that fits an MC, Malibu, CC, tige 20' inboard. Maybe some of those boats have less clearance and they made one trailer to handle all. Just thinking out loud here.

Chris

Chris, we measured when we did this because we gave some thought of setting the cross member up a bit (since our replacement is much thicker than the stock piece was). My memory has definitely faded, but I seem to remember clearance on my trailer being about 3/8" between prop/rudder and prop guard. Just writing it, it sounds extremely small, but had it been more, I think we would've tried to inset the cross piece rather than welding it to the bottom of the diagonal vertical pieces. So I don't think I'm too far off when it comes to my trailer. That first picture may be a little deceiving on clearance.

That said, my trailer is a MC trailer, and I have no idea what Dorsey does. But from looking at the Dorsey trailers, they have always appeared to me to have better clearance stock. I have dealt with them on several ocassions in getting replacement parts for my trailer. I'd give them a call. They are great to work with and may be able to give you exact specs or suggest ways to deal with this problem.

www.trailersbydorsey.com

**chris196** · 03-05-2007, 03:34 PM

Thanks, I'll give dorsey a call.
I'll also do some careful measuring down there.

I'm in Austin and our local trailer shop is magnum. I called them asking about modifications. I guess I just got the wrong guy. He told me to modify my house. Then I asked him about a lift kit to just get the whole trailer a couple of inches higher off the axle. He said well then you have to go deeper into the water to launch. It was like "Thanks for those pearls of wisdom." Absolutely nothing offered in the way of solutions. I know other people who have dealt with them and liked them. Like I said, I guess I just got the wrong guy.

**bkhallpass** · 03-05-2007, 03:58 PM

Depending upon the configuration of the trailer, you may need the clearance is you have to change out a prop. On one of my boats there is insufficient clearance. If I need to remove the prop, I have to jack up the back of the boat to gain enough clearance. BKH

**east tx skier** · 03-05-2007, 04:18 PM

Originally posted by chris196

Thanks, I'll give dorsey a call.
I'll also do some careful measuring down there.

I'm in Austin and our local trailer shop is magnum. I called them asking about modifications. I guess I just got the wrong guy. He told me to modify my house. Then I asked him about a lift kit to just get the whole trailer a couple of inches higher off the axle. He said well then you have to go deeper into the water to launch. It was like "Thanks for those pearls of wisdom." Absolutely nothing offered in the way of solutions. I know other people who have dealt with them and liked them. Like I said, I guess I just got the wrong guy.

Not that he was exactly wrong on the "deeper to launch" part of the equation, but for what it's worth, I've been fortunate enough to have never had 2" of lift make it where I couldn't launch the boat, be it in Austin or around here. And I haven't noticed any difference in the way that it rides at highway speeds either.

I had a guy who builds travel trailers do the work for me. He took his time and really took a legitimate interest in the project.

Again, call Dorsey. They are great folks and make great trailers.

By the way, did you buy that pretty red Ski Nautique that was for sale on here recently (Lake Travis boat). If so, you've got yourself a gorgeous boat. I found myself looking at it a time or six or twelve.

**chris196** · 03-05-2007, 04:30 PM

that's a good point about changing props, but I don't anticipate doing that.

Here's a picture of it, not the best, but it gives the idea. I had an idea. Assuming there is enough clearance. Cut the prop guard on the vertical part leaving a tab below the angled member. Drill 2 holes in the the tab and below where the cut is on the prop guard. Overlap the two and bolt together. Maybe not pretty, but it has the advantage of being adjustable if I screw up the clearance. Is that crazy?

Thanks

**bkhallpass** · 03-05-2007, 04:38 PM

Originally posted by chris196

that's a good point about changing props, but I don't anticipate doing that.

No one ever does. Yet, we've all done it, and will do it again. Sooner or later, you're going to hit something. BKH

**chris196** · 03-05-2007, 04:45 PM

that's why I'm liking the cut and bolt method even more.
It would allow a future prop change.
I don't think the prop guard is structural like on some of the other trailers I've seen posted here. I think it's strictly protective.

thanks for the feedback.

trailer clearance question

trailer clearance question

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