First Boat Guidance

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  • Bostonwheeler
    • Aug 2026
    • 7

    • Ottawa, ON


    #1

    First Boat Guidance

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    looking for help with buying my first v drive. Boat is on consignment and the dealer has provided the following details

    Details:
    Nautique 210 limited 2003
    PCM 5.7 330 -542 hours engine
    Perfect pass gps
    Bimini roof
    Ballast
    Tower speaker
    Tandem trailer
    Under 30kcad
    comes with cover

    Issues:

    There are 2 small nicks on the propeller.
    The bilge pump is noisy but functional.
    One tower speaker (passenger side) is not working.
    The starboard-side ballast pump needs replacing ( 3 hours of labor at $140/hr plus $170 for the pump).
    There is a small hole in a seat.
    The temperature gauge is not working.
    The hull is fine, but has a few stress cracks at the stern (normal for a 2003 boat).

    the steering cable has never been replaced.
    replaced the fuel pump in 2024.
    been servicing this boat for several years (at least 6 years); oil changes and winterizations have always been performed annually, and the engine impeller has been replaced every two years.

    not sure how concerning one gauge is but I had asked about other gauges given the gateway issues for this year.

    anything you’d like to know more about if you were looking to buy? They offered to do a compression test at my expense

  • bturner
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Jun 2019
    • 1790

    • MI

    • 2016 200 Sport Nautique

    #2
    How bad do you want someone to critique the boat? I'll assume you won't be offended (yet) as it's not currently your boat......

    Pictures are always difficult as most boats look a lot better in the pictures than in person but this is what I'm seeing:

    The good
    • The hours are good for the year.
    • The price seems in line after currency conversion but if you were able to buy something here in the states I think you'd find something maybe a bit more expensive but better (I'll explain my reasoning below). That said I can only imagine the potential nightmare of crossing the border these days but I actually have no clue if it would be a real issue or not.
    The bad
    IMO, this is not a well taken care of boat at all. The idea that you can rattle off 4 or 5 broken items is a red flag to me. Once again, IMO, this is a project boat priced (based on what I'm seeing available in Michigan) like a boat in a lot better condition. To my point......
    • 2 nicks on the prop. If they were planning to sell the boat why wasn't this reconditioned?
    • 1 tower speaker not working. Based on what I've seen this is more likely a bad channel than a bad speaker but who knows without further investigation. If they were planning to sell the boat why wasn't this repaired?
    • Bad ballast pump and they want to charge you full rate to replace? This just keeps getting worse.
    • Small hole in seat. Yeah and there's a mismatched cushion in there too.
    • Few stress cracks in the stern but they're normal? Really, none of my older boat had them and if they did I probably would have had them repaired.
    • You have a gauge that needs to be repaired and based on what we know about the gateway you just know this is going to be the beginning.
    • Plan on the steering cable.
    • The Bimini is loose and the older ones I've seen like that are typically parished.
    • The wheels on the trailer look like junk and it could be the lighting but is this the correct trailer for this boat?
    • So let me get this right, they're brokering the boat and are willing to do a compression test at your expense..... And then they'll have it for the next person looking at the boat at your expense as well if you don't buy it.
    Once again, this is my opinion so don't get hurt...... I've bought several what I considered project boats for less and in better shape. From what I'm seeing, this boat has been ridden hard and put away wet. This is also the classic, "Always serviced by dealer" line. If this is this is how the dealer is maintaining the boat, I can just imagine how the other work they've done to it must be. They and the current owner are doing the absolute minimum to keep this boat on the water.

    Honestly, you're at the end of the season here. Pass on this money pit and move on to another. I would recommend finding something like this Super Sport and adding the tower and ballast yourself.....

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...6-cc420510e98a

    Comment

    • Bostonwheeler
      • Aug 2026
      • 7

      • Ottawa, ON


      #3
      Thanks for the honest feedback - definitely not offended.

      A couple of the things you noticed weren’t on my radar, especially the mismatched cushion, Bimini, trailer wheels, and the possibility that the speaker issue could be an amp channel rather than just a speaker.

      The dealer originally presented the items as relatively minor, but when they’re all listed together, I can see how they point toward satisfactory maintenance.

      I also agree that asking me to pay for a compression test that they could then use for the next buyer doesn’t sit particularly well.

      I haven’t made an offer or committed to the boat, so I’m prepared to walk away.

      If I did pursue it, the price would need to reflect the repairs and uncertainty, including a compression test, water test, and a closer look at the stern cracks and trailer before proceeding.

      spoke with a local Nautique dealer today and was quoted 2900CAD + install for a gateway retrofit. (i know there are others available - KIT FARIA GATEWAY CONVERSION FOR 1246 GATEWAY BOX 2003-09 - Nautiqueparts.com) as well.

      I’m thinking I’d need at least a 5-7kcad buffer - that would put me somewhere around 22-25kcad, subject to a clean compression and water test

      Am I being realistic, or is this one where the number of warning signs should outweigh any discounted price.

      Comment

      • bturner
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Jun 2019
        • 1790

        • MI

        • 2016 200 Sport Nautique

        #4
        To be clear, I'm not saying this is some horrible boat as I would need to actually have a look at it in person to really be able to give an honest opinion of it however based on what I'm seeing in the pictures and what's been disclosed I really do think you could do better for the price.

        There's a saying in classic cars that holds true for boats and probably every other type of hobby vehicle out there..... Always buy the best condition boat you can afford and always let someone else pay for the restoration as it's very rare that you'll ever get all your money back if you're the one paying it. That said I've bought and flipped several boats and have bought a couple long term project boats that I would have never been able to afford if they were not projects. The key to not losing your shirt is knowing what you're getting into and buying the boat "right". By right, I mean at a price that will make any improvements/repairs financially feasible.

        So, that brings us back to this boat....

        Let's start with the dealer..... There is nothing wrong with buying a brokered boat but the issue is always that they're going to be taking a cut that IMO should be in your pocket. Also, when it comes to this particular dealer based on your first interaction, I don't trust them at all. Playing down all issues and looking to charge for the compression check just rubs me the wrong way. I get that they have to make a living but I have both a MC and Nautique dealer I've worked with for years that would never position themselves the way this dealer seems to be doing. I'm just not getting a good vibe here which for me is a red flag.

        If I did pursue it, the price would need to reflect the repairs and uncertainty, including a compression test, water test, and a closer look at the stern cracks and trailer before proceeding.

        This would be a smart move however I don't think you'll be able to get to that number especially when a broker is engaged as the current owner is going to have to be willing to really take it in the shorts. That and you're probably going to run into the "don't low ball me, I know what I got" attitude. This is something quite common when you're buying project/flip boats from people who've absolutely trashed their boats. They've destroyed their boat and think it's still worth a ton because of the name plate.

        I’m thinking I’d need at least a 5-7kcad buffer - that would put me somewhere around 22-25kcad, subject to a clean compression and water test
        Am I being realistic, or is this one where the number of warning signs should outweigh any discounted price.


        Trying to do the US/CA conversion here to keep on track. If I use 30% exchange and the high number you're talking ~$18K US. I'm thinking a very nice and properly maintained boat could be found in my market for probably ~$25K - $27K with fall pricing and the current soft market. IDK if I can make that $18K work in my head unless it was the boat of my dreams and the plan was for a long term project to get the boat to where I wanted it on an installment process, if you will. I certainly have been there and done this but it is challenging. I would really have to be 100% convinced that this was the boat I wanted to invest in and own long term. Also, $5K - $7K CA after conversion is $5K US on the high number and I guarantee you you'll blow by that number quick if you can't do all the work yourself.

        To this point let's consider the trailer which we've barely touched on.....
        • Let's say this is the right trailer, which it probably is and I just can't see it properly in the picture. One thing with used boats that's pretty much a constant is if the boat is beat, the trailer is trash. So to start the process, you need to get the date codes off the tires to see how old they are. My guess is that they're more than 5 years old and will need to be replaced. If so anything decent is going to be ~$120 each so there's $500.
        • On a 23 year old boat trailer that probably hasn't been maintained, I'm willing to bet when you pull the brake reservoir cap off ether they'll be nothing in there or it'll be water. If this is the case, get ready. At a minimum you'll need to flush the brakes which is no big deal IF you can do it yourself. If it really goes south though you're talking calipers, actuator, flex lines and either way plan on repacking the wheel bearing either way. Depending on how deep you have to go you could easily be $1K - $1.5K into the trailer doing to work youself.
        So here we are already $2K into your $5K buffer and you haven't even touched the boat.

        Most times with any used boat past 10 years old I'm recommending paying for a full survey. They're not cheap but can be the best money you'll ever spend if they find something you didn't see. A marginal/failed survey is also something that can be used in price negotiations and depending on where you live give you leverage on the seller as once defects are disclosed in the survey they can't legally pretend they didn't know about the defects on the boat.

        One last thing before I leave, just noticed the snaps for the cover in the fiberglass. That alone would put me off this boat. God I hate it when they do that. I mean who in their right mind drills 30 - 40 holes into the hull of their Nautique for a cover? But then again that could be just me.

        Comment

        • jpwhit
          Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
          • Aug 2016
          • 688

          • Cary, NC

          • 1998 Ski Nautique 2012 Nautique 200 2014 MasterCraft X25 . 2019 MasterCraft ProStar

          #5
          You say first v-drive boat? What is your boat ownership background and what do you plan to do with your next boat. What budget? And it sounds like you’re not interested or feel confident doing your own repairs. All of these make a huge difference for what’s the best boat choice.

          Comment

          • Scooter G
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Jan 2022
            • 1509

            • On a Lake in Idaho

            • 2022 G23 ZZ8

            #6
            Originally posted by bturner View Post
            From what I'm seeing, this boat has been ridden hard and put away wet.
            Who says this today, lol. Grandpa used to say that, I picked it up from my him, too funny.

            bturner covered everything I was thinking. The 3 hour replacement of the ballast pump was the rest of the salt on the wound.
            You are entering a buyers market in the boat arena this time of year, a lot to choose from. If that hasn't been said already.
            Best of luck, be wise.

            Comment

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