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  • functionoverfashion
    replied
    Originally posted by Tryathlete View Post

    That knock sensor has to make direct contact with the block: no Teflon tape or pipe thread compound. I donít think any sort of tee would work and maintain function.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I guess it depends on what you mean by maintaining function. The engine will run fine under normal conditions, but the sensor may be less effective at detecting detonation, sure.

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  • scottb7
    replied
    i thought i have seen tee working but like you said no tape....

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  • Tryathlete
    replied
    Originally posted by functionoverfashion View Post

    I have the excalibur and only have one knock sensor, on the port side I believe. I was going to put a T in place so the sensor could still be present but the other side of the T would have a drain. I have seen this done, and it may make the sensor a little less effective, but I can't imagine it's that big of a difference.
    That knock sensor has to make direct contact with the block: no Teflon tape or pipe thread compound. I donít think any sort of tee would work and maintain function.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • functionoverfashion
    replied
    Originally posted by hal2814 View Post
    Anyone do this on an Excalibur? I’d love to set this up but the knock sensors are the plugs on the engine block. I’m just wondering if there’s a way around that that could still drain on a barb.
    I have the excalibur and only have one knock sensor, on the port side I believe. I was going to put a T in place so the sensor could still be present but the other side of the T would have a drain. I have seen this done, and it may make the sensor a little less effective, but I can't imagine it's that big of a difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • hal2814
    replied
    Anyone do this on an Excalibur? I’d love to set this up but the knock sensors are the plugs on the engine block. I’m just wondering if there’s a way around that that could still drain on a barb.

    Leave a comment:


  • functionoverfashion
    replied
    I had that setup on my old boat as well. After winterizing my '03 SAN for the third time last month, I ordered a bunch of parts to set up quick drains for next year.

    For anyone looking to do this, I got all the parts I needed from the most literal website ever, fittingsandadapters.com. The site looks like it was designed in 1999, but it works! I've got a big pile of parts to install come spring.

    Leave a comment:


  • bturner
    replied
    Always a bonus! I went full on with my last boat and put quick connect connectors on the heater lines as well. I could drain the block and flush the heater core/lines in about 15 minutes. Starting from scratch again with the new boat.....

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  • NautiqueJeff
    replied
    I don't add anti-freeze either. I haven't for years on any of my boats. This boat does stay in a garage though, but it does get below freezing there sometimes.

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  • vision
    replied
    I can not speak to Jeffís protocol but I do not add anti-freeze to my raw water system. I simply drain everything and run the motor 30 seconds or so to push out any remaining water. But I also have a semi-closed system so there is coolant, not water, in my heater core.


    Sent from my iPhone using PLANETNAUTIQUE mobile app

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  • Nautiquehunter
    replied
    Do you add anti freeze after you drain it?

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  • vision
    replied
    First thing I did on my G 7 years ago. Used brass hose barbs and ran all the hoses to the center of the bilge, terminating in valves. So much easier to takes sets in the winter knowing draining everything is only going to take a few minutes.


    Sent from my iPhone using PLANETNAUTIQUE mobile app

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  • NautiqueJeff
    started a topic Winterization Surprise

    Winterization Surprise

    Went to winterize the Windshieldless Wonder this afternoon and found that the previous owner installed quick drains!

    Well, that job took about 30 seconds.

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