2008 SAN 230 - Prop Change to ACME 1615

[Team230]

My 2008 230 originally had an ACME 1235 prop. I got into some shallow water (actually - my daughter did as she pulled it off the trailer) and bent the tips. In my search for a replacement, ACME suggested the 1615 prop. They told me it would have better holeshot (low end) and no decrease on top end.

I installed it this weekend. My initial impression was that it made difference on low end, but I was not pulling much (we were just surfing and I only had one other person in the boat). On top end, I was able to increase my speed by about 1.5 mph. It went from me consistently running at 40 to almost 42 mphs.

I have the ZR390 engine.

I'm wondering if anyone else has any experience with this prop/config? I'm getting the 1235 repaired as a spare so I could go back and forth in a day.

Also, now that I have a spare prop, should I also be carrying around a prop puller? I had no issues with pulling the prop without one this go around. I don't mind getting one, but they are $100 and I'd prefer to not get one if I would not normally need one.

I also have a good story...
Called my dealer Monday morning after I jacked up my prop. I said "How Much?" They said $758. I said..WTF - they are all over the internet for $520. They said - "we can sell for that."

Question - how many times have I already over paid for crap...that sucks!

Story #2
Same dealer - I bought the prop from them for 520 because I may need that relationship some day...right? I pick up the prop and I say - "What's the proper torque for the prop nut?" A couple guys looks at each other and say..80 to 100...you really want to crank on it. I get home, unpack my ACME prop. There is a paper in there that SAYS 35 lb-ft torque. WTH. How are these guys so far off? Grrrr.....I wish there was another dealer nearby.

[ericchile]

My understanding is that that once you put the prop on the shaft, then throw it in the water. The push of the prop to propel the boat will tighten the prop correctly. The nut just has to have enough that it won't come off.

[scottb7]

Those 2 props are very similar (acme 1235 is 14.5 x 14.25) and (acme 1615 is 14.5 x 13.75) what that means is that diameter is same and 1615 is less pitch. In general the lower the pitch the more power - in others words better hole shot) and better ability to haul ballast but at higher rpm. But lower pitch means lower top end speed. But honestly that is very little difference, like so little I don't even think you would notice much difference either way.

I would tighten to what acme says, and I would not believe "The push of the prop to propel the boat will tighten the prop correctly."

[swatguy]

**** I didn't even know the prop nut had a torque spec. I just crank it as tight as I can. In 20plus yrs of boating never had an issue. Also the above statement is correct. Running forward pushes the pop on the shaft . If you have a loose nut the prop will only fly off in reverse.

Get a prop puller. There is no reason to have a spare prop without the puller. If you can't swap props the spare will do you no good. So carry a crecent wrench, pliers and prop puller. A me actually makes a kit with all the tools called the weekender I believe




as far as dealer pricing..........lot of the local places have things priced at "high" retail . They get lot of people that will just walk in and pay it because the need it and never really did any research. Always see what going rate is and approach them. 90% of the time they will match it.

[jesam]

Regarding torque, a trick I've used is to place a wrench on the nut and let the wrench bind on the trailer or bottom of the boat (use a rag as a buffer), then use both hands to turn the prop thus tighening the nut. Go as tight as you can get it with your hands by turning the prop. Never had a loose prop and no worries of over tightening.