Check Engine Light Help

[jsta281]

My first and most immediate question is does anyone have a list of issues that can cause the check engine light to come on?

My second question is anyone have any idea how to find out what the codes are besides going to the dealer?

Now that I asked that, Here is the long history of issues I have experienced over the last 3-4 days. I would appreciate any observations/speculations/ideas on what might be my issues.

Last Saturday I took my 2009 206 with the ZR 409 out for the first time this year after winterizing it. When I winterized it I did not fill the gas tank full (about 1/2) but I did use stabilizer. About a week ago when I got it out to get ready for the season I changed the oil (I have checked it several times since and it shows perfectly full). I did not change the fuel filter ( I don't think it has ever been changed). When I took it out it started fine and seemed to run pretty "normal" but I noticed what kinda felt like a vibration, and now I believe it was the engine running a little "off". It was not that bad but by the end of the day it was struggling pretty good. The check engine light never came on.

I took the boat home and changed the FCC filter, it was VERY dirty. I also changed the in line filter. I checked all the fittings going into the gas tank to make sure they were free and clear of debris and I checked the metal screen on the end of the fuel pick up tube. They were all clean.

Took the boat out today. It initially seemed better. It did not seem "perfect" in the sense that it would not do the top speed I am accustomed too. Normally with a light load (2 adults 2 kids and gear) it will run out about 47 mph, and it would only do 44 today. Otherwise it seemed ok.

I was towing my son on his kneeboard very slow and the check engine light came on as well as a beeping warning, the digital display started saying low power mode or something like that and take it to the dealer. I drove the boat for a bit at slow speeds and they both continued. My engine temp was not hot according to the digital and analog gauges. My oil pressure was not low according too the analog gauges.

I turned off the boat hooked up a fuel pressure gauge at the rail and turned the boat on and it stayed a constant 59-60 psi. I ran the boat under light load and the fuel pressure stayed the same.

At one point The beeping and the low power/take it to the dealer warning stopped but the CEL never went off except momentarily when we turned off the boat. As I was slowly going back to the boat ramp, I decided to just throttle it up despite the warning to see if the boat was actually in some kind of limp mode. I took the boat up to about 40 mph, so it was not in any kind of limp mode despite the beeping and CEL light. I then just babied it back and put it on the trailer.

So now I don't even know if the CEL is the same problem as I had a few days before or even related. I read somewhere that the two most common reasons why the CEL will come on is high engine temp and oil pressure sending unit. I think I pretty much ruled out too high temp (the boat never got over 165) and I have no oil leak. Which does not exclude the oil temp sensor but make its less likely.

I don't love the idea of taking it do the dealer and having them tear my head off over something I believe has to be a pretty minor/simple issue. At the same time I'm not really sure where to start figuring this thing out.

Any suggestions would be fantastic.

[Paxdad]

1. Check the impeller even though you indicated that the temp was normal. This should be an annual item to perform.
2. Remove and inspect the distributor cap and rotor for corrosion.
3. Replace the spark plugs.
FWIW the FCC filter will always come out looking dark for some reason it does not mean that it is dirty.

[ericchile]

If you use Marine Stabil, the dark color of that will make the filter in FCC dark as well.

[jsta281]

Here is a bit of an update. I took it to a dealer who was very "un dealer like" he pulled the codes straight away. The only code that came up was SPN 173 which apparently is an "exhaust temp to high" code. It only happened once according to the log in the computer. The service guy was unfamiliar with the code and could not offer any solid source of the code. He suggested it could be bad fuel related or spark related. he cleared the codes for a nominal fee.

So good news is it does not appear anything is really wrong, bad news no know fix. So the plan for now is to drain the remaining fuel, change spark plugs (lame at 179 hours) fill up with good non-ethonal gas, and run some seafoam treatment. And see if the CEL stays off and all my HP comes back.

If anyone here knows anything about SPN 173 high exhaust temp code please post up.

edit: If my boat had the CES system I think that code could mean a bad O2 sensor, but I do not have the CES model which means I don't have an 02 sensor right?

[Quinner]

For sure either freshen up with adding fresh or dump that fuel, I have had issues with old treated gas in the spring, I now lay-up with as little fuel as possible.
Hold off on the plugs until after a run with some better fuel

[jsta281]

Still working through this process. I have learned that even though my ZR409 does not have the CES system, exhaust temperature sensors were "optional" and in my case I have them, they are located at the top of the exhaust manifolds. If I assume that both sensors are working properly (not a given) then I had unusually high exhaust temp, which likely means a lean condition, which could be attributed to the fuel problems I am experiencing.

Quinner, I will be draining the remaining fuel. I also will be running Sea Foam incase this whole thing is a result of bad gas (or too infrequent filter change) that could have partially clogged an injector.

And incase it seems I am largely talking to myself here maybe this will help somebody work out similar issues in the future.

[Dave Rittiman]

I am having a somewhat similar problem, my boat is a 2009 SAN 230 with a ZR409, 293 hours and the check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago. When i go over 3500 RPM i get the check engine light, if i stop the boat and restart it it goes off. I replaced the RAW water impeller, Gas FCC filter and still get the check engine light after 3500 rpm. Also ended up replacing the oil sensor same thing still. I took it to the dealer they connected it to the computer and it had no codes in the computer what so ever. They want to do a water test now and see if they can reproduce it.

The water temp is 175

Oil pressure is 40 - 60 PSI. T

Oil level is fine on the dipstick

Trans / vDrive levels are both fine.

Does anyone have any ideas that might cause it ( Knock Sensor ) ?

Is there another sensor that the check engine light is used ?

ZR409 Manuel
http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc...zr409parts.pdf

[jsta281]

So here is the latest with my boat, I think I now have it figured out but will not know for certain until I get it out on the water again. Yesterday I drained all the old gas out. I changed my spark plugs and added Sea Foam (1 oz. per gallon) to ethanol free gas. Took the boat out. Boat ran much better. I got within a mph of my standard top speed (I think I don't have my plugs gapped correctly more on that later). BUT -- CEL and beeping warning went off again after about 10 min of cruising.

I was certain it was the same code. Took it back to my super friendly dealer had him pull the codes this morning. Exact same code.

Yesterday while I was researching this whole 173 exhaust temp code I learned that it is associated with code EMWT1 (exhaust manifold something or other). And these codes are associated with the exhaust temperature gauge that SOME (it was optional in 2009 on the ZR 409 before they went to the CES system) ZR409 have. This sensor is located right on top of the exhaust manifolds (both sides) and the part # is R020047. My friendly dealer called PCM and basically PCM said that those sensors are really unnecessary (hence the optional part) and that the sensors are known to fail and cause the CEL to come on along with the beeping "take it to the dealer message." The solution? cut the wires going to the sensor and tape them off. No more problem.

So it appears that my poor running issues were not at all associated with the CEL light, the boating Gods just thought it would be fun to confuse the issue with this random CEL issue with sensors that are apparently unnecessary. Of course I won't know that cutting the wires to the sensors will fix the CEL for certain until I take the boat out again.

Back to the spark plugs. The PCM manual says plugs should be gapped at .04. The plugs that I took out of the boat that were installed by PCM before it left the assembly line were gapped at .09 or greater. The factory replacement plugs (which by the way has a new part # the original part number on the plugs was AC Delco 41-985 has been changed to AC Delco 41-110. $6.99 a piece at your local auto parts store) out of the box were also gapped at .09 or greater. I have experience with spark plug gap and I know that this seemed to be way to much gap. But because the original plugs were gapped that big I put the new ones in at .09. I will be pulling them out and gapping at .04 or maybe a tad more.

It appears that if the gap really is suppose to be .04 the spark plug guy at PCM or Nautique does not gap his plugs to the recommended specs.

[jsta281]

Dave, if you read my long post my CEL was associated with the exhaust temperature sensor. If your 409 is not a CES motor (no catalytic converter) it may or may not have those sensors, if you do have them you can cut the wire to them and tape them off as they are know to go bad and are unnecessary. However, your CEL light coming off and on at 3500 RPM is different then my CEL that would come on regardless of rpm and stay on no matter how fast or how slow I went and would immediately come back on after turning of the power to the boat. Mine was also associated with a code that could be read by the dealer. I'm very surprised that they could not read any codes. I think the engine computer stores not only the code but the engine parameters at the time the code "popped" and the CEL light came on. So, some of what you are saying does not jive with my limited experience with pulling codes and the CEL.

[jsta281]

Okay so I was wrong about the spark plug gap I don't know what number I was seeing but the factory plugs were not at .09 not even close. In fact they were under .04 which is what the factory specs are they were between .035 and .037. So I got them to .04.

I also cut the wires going to the exhaust temperature sensors to say that didn't cause me a little angst would not be true. I will try and take it out tonight or tomorrow for a final report.

[jsta281]

Took the boat out Friday. After cutting the wires to the exhaust temp sensors as PCM suggested the CEL did not come back on YAHOO! Boat continues to run better and better as the fuel systems works out all of the bad gas. Hit 48 mph with 4 people full tank and some gear.

As it turned out there was no connection between the CEL and the fuel filter/bad fuel issues. It just complicated the diagnosis.

[Dave Rittiman]

Good to here congrats on figuring it out.. Still need to take mine out and see if I disconnect the exhaust manifold sensors if that has any impact on the CE.

[Dave Rittiman]

Guys
Looking for some input and some ideas from you guys,

• 2009 Nautique 230 Team
• Zero Off,
• Zr409 motor
• 275 hours
• No OS sensors

My Check Engine Light comes on randomly and everything looks correct My oil pressure ( 60 psi ) and water temp ( 175 ) which is where they should be.

Replaced the following in the last 30 hours trying to track it down end of last season. I changed the Engine Oil, vDrive Oil, Impeller, Fuel Filter and even changed the Alternator thinking it might have something to do with it. Still having the same issue when the boat is idling the CEL light won’t come on until I start to put a load on it and its come about 60% of the time and stays on until I stop the boat and restart. There is no errors that pop up or any alarms other then the light on the cluster. I am almost starting to think it's a wiring issue somewhere or a wiring being shorted since the light comes on when the circuit is grounded.
Exhaust Manifold Sensor: Unplugged the sensor on the manifolds and it didn't make a difference.

A local dealer put it on the computer and there was no codes that came up while sitting in the service bay, they wanted to lake test it and have the computer on it and see if any codes come up.
Being curious I wanted to see if any of the wiring under the dash was pitched or loose so I pulled the panel under the dash. Two of the wires that connect the dash cluster harness were just hanging a black and a blue wire that were tapped together, but the tape was not on their very well ( Image 3 below do these go to anything )?

I have looked over the 2008 230 Main Wiring Diagram and can’t figure it out for the life of me.
2008 230 Main Wiring Diagram
http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc...ainHarness.pdf

When the engine light comes on engine vitals

'
My Harness is the Rev C Harness.



Dash Cluster Harness Connector, Both the green and purple look fine, but the blue and black were just hanging.



Another shot of the wires do they go to anything ?






Image 2008 230 Main Wiring Diagram
http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc...ainHarness.pdf