'02 SANTE Heater Installation Photo Chronicle

[ag4ever]

I started the actual installation of my group buy heater this morning. I decided to start posting the progress while some resin needs to cure.

Begining photos:

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[ag4ever]

Step Two: Remove driver's seat.

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[ag4ever]

Step Three: Remove kick Panel and Fuse Panel from Kick Panel.

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[ag4ever]

To remove the fuse panel, you simply loosen one wing nut, and swing the aluminum bar up out of the way. Once the bar is moved, the fuse block can just be pulled straight back, and then swung up out of the way. I wedged mine between the deck, and some other wires. Becarefull you don't damage anything while wedging it up there.

[ag4ever]

Step Four: determine if there are any un-necessary obstructions:

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[ag4ever]

The hump is what the panel attaches to. As you can see my panel has been installed at least three times. I plan to install my heater where the hump is, so It has to go.

Stay tuned for details on how I will be mounting the kick panel.

[ag4ever]

Step Five: Remove hump with the use of a reciprocating saw and an angle grinder.

[ag4ever]

Step Six: (actually shown in step five photos) Lay down four layers of fiberglass cloth, fully saturated with polyester resin. (I called my dealer to find out whick resin is correct to use, and they said use a high quality polyester resin, not epoxy)

The next few steps will be add additional layers of fiberglass, some the size of the hole, and some larger than the hole. In between layers that have fully cured, I will sand prior to installing additional layers. In all I plan to put down over 15 layers.

[ag4ever]

Step Seven: Sanding of first set of layers of fiberglass

[ag4ever]

Step Eight: Additional multiple layers laid up

[ag4ever]

Step Nine: Add additional layers to the last set of layers while they are still slightly tacky. I did this because everything looked to be laying up good, and there were no sharp corner the glass was not laying up flat on like the first set of layers. As long as the surface is still tacky, you will get a good bond. If it is not tacky, it will require sanding to get rid of the surfacing wax. The wax seals off the air allowing the resin to cure completly. If it was regular laminating resin, the surface would always stay a little tacky.

[ag4ever]

Step Ten: start shaping the heater/Kick Panel mounting plate. I am using startboard to mount to the deck for asthetic and functional reasons.

First, it looks a lot better than bare fiberglass, and since i don't plan to patch the carpet without it the fiberglass would be exposed anytime I removed the kick panel for any maintenance reasons.

Second, it give me a surface that I can add fasteners to in any location without filling the fiberglass floor up with holes. It also give me a nice structure to attach the kick panel to.

[ag4ever]

(An Aside)

The hump: On my boat it sure looked like this thing was installed backwards. The slope was on the side that the kick panel attaches to. On the bow side the thing was nearly vertical.

Before I cut the thing entirely out, I made a test cut on the corner. Then i cut about half of it out to be sure there was nothing inside of it. Then I went hog wild and took it down to the deck.

[ag4ever]

(more hump trash)

[ag4ever]

Step Eleven: Fourth and final layers of fiberglass. That makes more than 20 individual layers of cloth saturated with polyester resin.

Step Twelve: Cut out carpet to match mounting plate.

[ag4ever]

Step Thirteen: Assemble mounting board.

[ag4ever]

Step Fourteen: Screw mounting Board together and screw to fibergals floor.

[ag4ever]

Step Fifteen: Test fit heater

[ag4ever]

Step Sixteen: Install starboard heater bracket. I chose to install the bracket with the leg under the heater so that I could shift the heater as far back and towards the hull as possible. That will allow more space for the ballast hoses and the heater vent hoses to turn any required corners.

[ag4ever]

Step Seventeen: Mount port barcket and heater to bracket.

[ag4ever]

Note the routing for the bilge pump hose and the ballast tank hoses. I plan to insert a piece of armaflex pipe insulation to prevent the hoses from having a hole rubbed in them from the corner of the heater and the heater fan.

[ag4ever]

Step Eighteen: Remove seat cushions at rear of boat for access to run heater lines.

[ag4ever]

Step Nineteen: Remove seat base. It is held in by two machine screws and lock washers on the two center support bars, and two rubber "bungie" style hold down straps.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty: Remove gas tank access hatch. It is held in by three screws at the leading edge. Once these are removed, you can grap the trailing edge, and lift it out. Notice the space in that gas tank for the picnic table support to go.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-One: Run line from rear of boat to heater. There are two options for this step.

First, under the floor, fish a line from rear of the boat up to the port where the wires and water line come up behind the dash. I found it easier to run a stiff wire (copper grounding wire). I started at the engine, and ran it under the "lip" of the gas tank on the starboard side. I then ran it on top of the center ballast tank between it and the floor. Then the wire was fished up behind the dash. That is where I stopped for today, so I will snap photos tomorrow.

Second, the easy route would be to run them under the gunnel from the rear engine hatch to behind the dash, and just tie them up and out of the way. I really did not like the idea of hot engine water running under my gunnels, so I opted for the hard route, for now.

[awake4air]

Hey great writeup, but you didn't need to remove the fiberglass hump. I installed a 3 port heater myself and I had room even with the hump. Probably the best way to mount it is to put the squirl cage on the bottom with the vents facing upwards. If you mount it in the correct spot, you can the heater hoses to attach to the box right where they come up from the hull opening.

[ag4ever]

I plan to add more gadgets to my boat in the future, and wanted as much space as possible for them. Plus, I just hatted the lack of acces the hump thing gave me. I had previously test fitted the heater a couple weeks ago, and was just not happy with any of the locations that I had available. Now it is down low, and leaves me more room for electronics, such as CD changer, amps, etc...

[awake4air]

Yeah I contemplated the same thing. I was going to put a subwoofer in there but just decided to build a subwoofer box and put behind the drivers seat. You know a pretty good place to put amps if you want them out of the way is behind the kickpanel where the throttle is. I have two JL amps stuffed behind it and you would never even know they are in the boat. And it takes up the space that is essentially wasted.

[ag4ever]

When I redo the stereo, I plan to out some amps behind the throtle and next to the observer's seat. Under the dash will be a high power stereo radio re-broadcaster (FM stereo transmitter), a CD changer, and possibly crossovers etc. I probably will put one sub in a custom seat box behind the driver, and one in a new box under the observer's seat.

But, all that is still down the road aways.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-One (photos):

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-Two: Tape Hetaer hose to copper wire, and pull from engine to dash. I chose to go this direction because it aloowed the hose to be laid out in a much more straight path, and would the bind up a little less. This part is tough, but it can be done, just go an inch at a time. Eventually the hose will be from the back to the front. I also chose to double up the hose and pull it all at once. Note the engine end has not been cut, so it is still one long piece of heater hose.

[ag4ever]

It was at this time that my suspicion that I did not have enough heater hose was confirmed. See the photo of the heater hose by the V-Drive. There is no way it will make it to the back of the boat, let alone the other side of the engine. This was solved by adding a valve in the supply line and splicing an extension to the return line. added the valve so that I could control the hot water. I live in Texas, so we don't need any more heat in the dash area during the summer. Even with the fan turned off there will still be hot engine water flowing through the heater core. With the valve, I can turn this water off, and not worry about my feet getting warmer than usual. More on this latter.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-Three: Connect heater hoses to heater under dash.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-Four: Install supply barb in engine for hose connection. I decided to connect my hoses in the same manner that Flyerace did his. (See his post on his heater install.) I connected the supply hose barb to the port on the intake manifold, and the return hose barb to the port on the water pump.

The allen plug is where I tapped for the supply water. The allen wrench size is 3/8"

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-Five: Install return line hose barb. This barb is installed into the waterpump. The plug on this one was a 9/16" square plug.

[ag4ever]

Overview of engine hose barbs:

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-Six: Connect supply heater hose to engine hose barb. Since I did not have enough hose to reach the final desination i cut the supply line at the rear of the fuel tank. I was hoping this would leave me enough hose to make the connection on the return line without an additional splice. It also allowed me to add the valve in a reasonably accessable location. After assembling the valve (not supplied in heater kit) I attached it to the hose extension and the supply line to the heater unit. I then routed it under and to the rear of the engine, carefully noting any items it must stay clear of (rudder and stuffing box). Then I routed up the engine staying clear of the accessory drive belts and pullies, finally connecting it to the supply hose barb.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-Seven: Connect return line hose. I routed the return line in a similar fashion to the supply line as they go to locations that are close to each other on the engine. Unfortunatly, I was about 2' short on hose length. I added a splice using a brass splice and hose calmps (not supplied in kit) at about the raw water pump. Then I routed the hose up the engine away from the accessory drive, and to the hose barb securing it with a hose clamp.

[ag4ever]

Heater hose connection to engine overview:

[ag4ever]

Now I need to use some nylon zip ties to secure the heater hose in safe locations.

After that, it is wiring and installing vents.

Also reassembling the boat :mrgreen:

[ag4ever]

Here are some interior cabin shots so you can get an idea of access and routing.

[awake4air]

One more comment. I was able to fish the heater tube, next to the gas tank, far enough to grab it from the ballast tank compartment. Then from there feed it up the the hole under the steering wheel. All without pulling up the engine compartment, or the seats and without a fish wire. For anyone trying to do the install, I would suggest trying it like that first. It will save you a lot of time and trouble if successful. It may seem crazy to be doing all this in the summer, but worth it later. I'm actually thinking about adding a second heater to the back of the boat for all the passengers to use.

[Edwin]

Great write up Ag. Beginning to end, how long did the install take?

[skinautique]

Is it just me or did you take a ton of unnecessary steps? Why did you bother to cut out the chunk of fiberglass behind the kick panel?

[Air206]

Awesome write up!! It will be so helpful for those wanting to tackle the heater install .... Great Job!!! :salut:

[ag4ever]

I have not completly finished yet. Keep in mind that I did take more steps than necessary to install it, and I took a lot of brakes in between works sessions. As soon as it started becoming wok, I stopped walked away and did other things. This is meant to be fun, and there is no sense rusing it and not enjoying the work.

I cut the chunk of fiberglass out because it really would have made mounting the heater harder with the way it was in there. (My '02 has a stupid cooler under the bow seat right in front of the driver which limist the amount of space available in front of the hump. Sure there was room, but I just did not like it. It was throwing my feng shui off knowing it was back there. Once it was removed, i had tons more space to work back there. The thing was entirly too big for the purpose it served. All it was there for was to attach the kick panel too, and it did a poor job of that as well. if CC wanted to make an attachment they should have made it verticle at the kickpanel, and only 4-5" tall, and slope down from there towards the bow.

I would estimate my actual work time invested as 8 hours start to finish (including cutting vents that have not been cut.) The windshield vent might add some time to that if it is hard to disassemble and reassemble.

[ag4ever]

Step Twenty-Eight: Wire Heater. I did not have any of the correct molex connectors that CC used, and the number of stores available to shop at on Memorial Day was limited, so I decided to use the single circuit Molex connectors, and replace the four circuit Molex connector that CC used. Also the way that Heater craft had the thing wired with the three circuit connector was down right stupid. If I had used their connector, there was a possibility that a live 12 volt wire could touch a ground and short out. You don't ever have a conector that has a possible 12 volt source that is not shielded.

[ag4ever]

I tested the heater at this point, and the thing sure does blow. All three fans speeds worked, and I am a happy camper.

Normally the next step would be to cut the holes in the kick panel for the hot tubes, and remove the windshield to cut the hole for the defroster vent, but I don't own a 3" and 4" hole saw. I went to the hardware store to get them (one of the many brakes I took) and discovered the cup for the 4" saw was $20, the cup for the 3" saw was $15, and the arbor for them was $8. That is over $40 for some friggin hole saws. I decided to check out Harbor Freight on the internet, and sure enough, they have a set that includes hole saws in 1/2" increments from 2 1/2" to 5" for less than $10. As it turned out I also had a flier from my local Harbor Freight, and that set was on sale for $3.96. I decided I would just get up today (Memorial Day) and run on down to Harbor Freight and pickup a set. Well I get there (other side of town from where I am working on the boat) and they are closed. No sign that sayes they will be closed Memorial Day, just locked doors. Oh well, I guess it just was not meant to be. So there I am, the heater is installed, just without the vents.

When I add the vents, I will extend the writeup.

BTW, I installed the kick panel, and it is now sturdier than it has ever been!

[ag4ever]

OK, so now here is the continuation of the installation.

Step Twenty-Nine: Remove the windshield. The windshield is held on by a series of screws that are hidden by a strip of rubber at the front base of the windshield. You do not have to remove the metal surronuds from the windshield. I thought you had to remove the top piece, then pull the glass to get acces to the lower screws, but alas, that is not the case. After you remove the screws, the windshield just lifts right off. Becarefull, i had a few screws were the head had been sheared off, and the threads were in the aluminum and the fiberglass. This added a little more time to the removal, as i had to drill the screws out of the aluminum.

[ag4ever]

Step Thirty: Drill hole into fiberglass between dash and windshield. Check to be sure that you won't drill into anything but fiberglass.

[ag4ever]

Step Thirty-One: Insert defroster (euro vent) into hole drilled into dash untill it "snaps" into place.

[ag4ever]

Step Thirty-Two: Drill two holes (in a location of your choice) in the kick panel (or side panel where netting is or where ever you want the hot tubes).

[ag4ever]

Step Thirty-Three: Insert Hot Tubes and secure with sheetmetal screws.

[ag4ever]

Step Thirty-Four: Connect one hot tube to heater, one hot tube to Y splitter, one half of the vent tube to the Y splitter and the heater, the other half of the vent tube from the euro vent to the Y splitter.

There is only one piece of vent hose supplied for the euro vent. This means that it has to be cut into two sections. I made a shorter section for the Y to euro vent so that the Y would barely rest on the heater.

[ag4ever]

Step Thirty-Five: Re-install kick panel and windshield.

Enjoy your new heater.

[pdxCC]

This is a great thread. Does anyone have a shot of their heater core instalaltion under the bow of their SNCB or 196 that they can post?

[swc5150]

This is a great thread. Does anyone have a shot of their heater core instalaltion under the bow of their SNCB or 196 that they can post?

I just installed one in my '07 196. I'll take some pics for you, then try to figure out how to post them (I could email them?). The most difficult part of the install is running the hoses back to the engine. Wear leather gloves or subject yourself to numerous fiberglass cuts and slivers! There's a shelf on the driver's side under bow that makes mounting a breeze. Get the "Y" connector for the raw water intake, which helps the heater blow hot air while at idle.

[pdxCC]

Thanks! I am prepared for the battle and have everything ready to go with my pull wires already in-place. I may swap over to a wire snake to try and ease the pull.

Currently I'm planning to use the y-pipe and take the supply feed off the lower end of the block. If that doesn't give me the heat I need I'll move it upto the manifold for the conenction.

Cheers~

[jimmylee1000]

I'd love to see those pics. Can you email to me? Gonna do mine this weekend.