Repower

[Showtime87]

Im restoring a 82 mustang. The engine was trashed from freezing. I wanted to add alittle hp. I found out there was limited parts such as cams for RR engines. Been looking into using a SR engine. Only interested in knowing what your results if you have done this. Talked to Woody at Nautique parts and he said it would be fine. I asked this question on another forum and I wound up being a peeing contest. Yes im a glutton for punishment
thanks again

[jpwhit]

There’s no drawback to using a SR engine as long as you use a newer vintage transmission so the propeller rotation will be correct for Nautique. Even that’s not required if you don’t care if it drives like a MasterCraft instead of a Nautique.

[bturner]

I've personally found moving from standard OEM engine builds for boats to be challenging due to the load operation of marine versus automotive operation, specifically in the torque curve. Add to that reliability/durability, that would move the needle noticeably can end up being an expensive game if the goal is to use the boat for it's intended purposes. I've seen engines that put up big HP numbers fall flat when installed in a boat due to the HP being developed too high in the RPM range when a ski boat is really looking for that hole shot to 3500 - 4000 RPM range for a slalom boat. You can play games with the prop but the whole process becomes the hobby, not being on the water or actually skiing. But then again that may be what you're looking for.

All that aside I do actually have some experience with RR versus SR but only at the prop. In 2003 MasterCraft sold a limited number of X2s with RR props, the engines were SR but the props were RR. I ended up with one at a steal of a deal due to the issues the original owner had with the boat. The boat leaned hard (I want to say to starboard but it's been years ago) and steering was terrible. I did a ton of research back when there was no real search engines like there are today and worked with the dealer who was able to find a service bulletin recommending switching the prop rotation and reconfiguring shift operation which effectively changed the boat back to the original configuration. You're able to do this as the trans doesn't know the difference between forward or reverse and will operate just fine in either configuration. After making this change the difference was night and day. The boat no longer listed and steering was vastly improved.

So why do I mention all this? Well, many boats are set up for a specific prop rotation and will offset the location of the rudder to counter the rotational forces. I've also seen rudders shaped based on rotation as well. That was the second change I made on the X2 that gave the boat that butter steering at speed that ski boats are known for. The whole process was an incredible learning experience for me.

So what's my point then? I see no problem running either rotation engine as long as you're addressing prop rotation. As long as the prop is turning in the same direction as designed, it shouldn't matter which rotation the engine is turning. You may get the argument from the "true believer", 100 off slalom snobs that the Coriolis effect of the engine rotation will affect hull tracking and develop a bump at this speed or line length but hey, we're talking about a 82 Mustang here which to be honest.... didn't have the greatest slalom wake back in 82 and certainly not even close to today's boats.

But then again, who knows, I could be completely wrong.....

Oh, and here's the receipts in case you're wondering if I'm BS'ing about it..... Been there, done that.

[teamseal]

Peeing contest!! LOL! must have been over on CCF?? OK Woody is (ill use mostly) correct. one must take into account how you are going to use the boat when finished. in this case you have no real run attitude information as to how well the hull would accept a left rotation power plant. flat bottom boat with some potential misbehavior concerns. adding HP is only good to some extent with out adding some hull modifications. the faster it goes the harder it will try and drive the nose down causing a porposing effect. that hull should run close to 50mph or a little over with out issues. going left hand and again not having any back ground info will require one of two things to make the boat ride neutral (baseline) with a driver only.
commonly when a older Correct Craft is turned to the left the hull will ride driver side down. depending on the nature of the hull will dictate how hard it will run down. more hook or rocker on one side of the trailing edge or the other in some hulls will need some added or reduced compensation on the trailing edge. doing this with out screwing up wake characteristics is not for the first timers. most time though it will only take a weight bag on the passenger side to making the hull run flat as designed with the left rotation engine, how much weight can not be determined until the boat makes it to the water. i did a 79 SN a number of years ago with a 04 closed cooled Excalibur. all it took was 60 pounds forward under passenger seat to make the boat work without getting out the sanders and gel coat.

cost wise in today's repower and resurrection world go as new as possible, keep it tidy and clean and make sure the time spend is enjoyable as well enjoyable with the end result..