Repair for Dead Gauges 2003-2006

[blikhim]

They were laying right on top of the engine, sort of in the starboard and stern portion of the engine (next to the throttle cable/lever I think). It looked like a wiring harness that was supposed to be fastened to something had become unfastened and the wire actually fell down and into contact with the belt. I'll try and take/post a pic next time I'm in the boat...

Thank you deciv, I will search there first to see if there are any exposed wires.

I got this from Paul Brockett @ Faria tech support to help in troubleshooting:

"Hello,
Please see the attached Is0151. Page 16 shows the wiring for the analog senders. Please refer to plug 14, pin three. You can use the attached IS0345 to test the analog sender.
The gauge itself can be tested by changing its position in the daisy chain. If you put the inoperative gauge in place of a working gauge and it still does not work, the gauge is bad.
Please note that the gateway box and gauges on this boat are obsolete and unavailable. They also can not be repaired.
The next option you would have to replace a bad gauge is to bypass the box and run the signal wire from the sender to an analog gauge.
Here is a link to our aftermarket catalog. https://fariabeede.com/2-pages/prod_...dGauge=2_press
Faria does not sell directly to the customer but you can Google "Faria" and the part number you are looking for and distributors will come up.
All the best, Paul

IS0151_C_Serial_Bus_for_correctCraft.pdf

IS0345a Voltage.pdf "

From my understanding, there is some code in the BUS sent from the Gateway that the gauges can interpret. It isn't just a voltage reading that a normal analog gauge can read. That signal from the Gateway is daisy changed through the cluster and the gauges read them and respectively display the input. There are only 4 channels (wires) in the daisy chain and whatever binaries are in there control the displays of 6 gauges, so you can't really hot-wire these digital displays. They look analog, but they are not. You can still get some gauges on Nautique Parts, but you might have a 'one-off' in your dash.

I have a dead gauge in the cluster that seems to migrate; was the oil pressue last week, this week it is the engine temp.

Will open the gateway and look for water, planning on cleaning the contacts and the board while I'm in there. I'll also search for shorts as dicev has recommended and then I'll change the sequence of the daisy chain as Faria recommends to see if the gauge is dead or if the issues follow the interfaces of the daisy chain.

If I had $900 to burn, I would lose the factory gateway/gauges. Seems like the best way to go after a week of banging my head on the wall. What is it with boats and gauges? 3rd boat and have yet to have a fully functional dash. Want to know what that feels like.

[deciv]

deciv, where exactly were your exposed wires? Port/Starboard? I am very convinced I have a shorting issue. Thanks

They were laying right on top of the engine, sort of in the starboard and stern portion of the engine (next to the throttle cable/lever I think). It looked like a wiring harness that was supposed to be fastened to something had become unfastened and the wire actually fell down and into contact with the belt. I'll try and take/post a pic next time I'm in the boat...

[blikhim]

Just a note here. I had very similar problems (no tach, oil pressure, temperature, and intermittent volt). Tried cleaning the gateway box (which looked clean to start with) and that did seem to revive the volt but didn't fix the others. Was seriously thinking about doing the big gauge replacement but was back in the engine working on something else and noticed some broken wires heading back toward the stern. They're just two dinky ones that I think are for the courtesy lights back there. I had actually noticed them once before and was too lazy to fix them at that point (hardly run at night anyway). However, this time I took the ten minutes to splice them and, amazingly, all of my gauges are working fine now. So, I guess these wires were causing a short or ground problem or interfering with the computer in some other way.

Moral of the story (and as others have said in this thread): it's worth a once over of the entire boat to look for any wiring issue before dropping a grand on the replacement kit.

deciv, where exactly were your exposed wires? Port/Starboard? I am very convinced I have a shorting issue. Thanks

[Neptune442]

Lol I just may! Although I probably used up all my luck on that gateway box, but I'll take it! It was pretty crazy, every time I'd unplug one of the connectors from the bottom of the box, water would come through the holes. It must have been a relatively recent issue though, because there really wasn't much for corrosion...but who knows.

[SilentSeven]

You were able to drain a soaked box...dry it out...and it all works???? Dude - go buy a lottery ticket!!

[Neptune442]

I have to thank this thread. I was able to negotiate a lower price on my recently purchased 2005 SV211 because most of the dash gauges weren't working. Soon after getting it home, I removed the gateway box and sure enough it was filled with water. I followed the steps as described by gatorgates, and now all of my gauges are fully functional! I did end up disconnecting and capping the speedo hoses - don't want to chance it in the future, and have PP for speed. All for an $8 can of electronics contact cleaner....so cool

[deciv]

Just a note here. I had very similar problems (no tach, oil pressure, temperature, and intermittent volt). Tried cleaning the gateway box (which looked clean to start with--note that the 2006 sv211 does not have the pitot tube hoses running into the box) and that did seem to revive the volt but didn't fix the others. Was seriously thinking about doing the big gauge replacement but was back in the engine working on something else and noticed some broken wires heading back toward the stern. They're just two dinky ones that I think are for the courtesy lights back there. I had actually noticed them once before and was too lazy to fix them at that point (hardly run at night anyway). However, this time I took the ten minutes to splice them and, amazingly, all of my gauges are working fine now. So, I guess these wires were causing a short or ground problem or interfering with the computer in some other way.

Moral of the story (and as others have said in this thread): it's worth a once over of the entire boat to look for any wiring issue before dropping a grand on the replacement kit.

[Brucetheshark]

You're changing your whole boat to avoid swapping out the gauges?

There was a new listing on O-I at local dealer for a 2008SE 196 with 100 hours, much nicer trailer, much better cover. Listing was $5K over the 2006LE I just bought and have not paid taxes on yet. I would have gotten a boat two years newer, 325 less hours, would not have to spend $1K on gauge fix (plus my time) and $1.5K on new PP due to display fade issue (plus my time). For $2500 I would have gladly done it if it hadn't sold before they opened Monday morning.

[functionoverfashion]

Thx Jeff, I'm looking to trade an '06 for '08 to avoid the gateway problem. I assume 'Signature' is the base model w/o keyless, w/o hydo gate, w/o PP?

You're changing your whole boat to avoid swapping out the gauges?

[Brucetheshark]

Thx Jeff, I'm looking to trade an '06 for '08 to avoid the gateway problem. I assume 'Signature' is the base model w/o keyless, w/o hydo gate, w/o PP?

[NautiqueJeff]

It depends. If you have a Limited or a Team, then yes, it uses a gateway. If you have a Signature Edition, it does not.

[Brucetheshark]

Anybody know if later years SN196 do not use the Faria Gateway box, like 2007,08,09?

[bolinger06]

Just finished everything up with the guage conversion kit and the stargazer perfect pass. Guages came on and it fired right up without issue. Only ran into 2 issuea when wiring. Conversion harness has a d5 plug that is for the depth guage I believe but 2006 sv211 didnt have one of those anywhere I could find. The 6 pin connector you have to wire up took care of that issue I'm hopin . Another set of instructions say to pull a black tach wire from perfect pass and connect it into an open slot in a new harness plug then stuff the 2 wires into an open slot on the 12 pin connector. Couldn't find any black wire they were talking about. Guessing since I upgraded the perfect pass to stargazer and eliminated the gateway box that I didnt need to do it anyway, or my perfect pads didnt have that tach wire to begin with.

[jpirotte]

Any updates on this issue? My gateway had zero water doesn’t have the lines to the Speedo either. No Corrosion either. Is there a way to get it rebuilt or am i stuck getting the analogue deal? Any thing easy i May be missing? 12 volts going in nothing out.

[Stevemo14]

I Would say the gauge itself has a few issues, and you probably need a new sender. I put a new sender in mine this spring. Haven;t got through a tank of gas yet, but can let you know how it performs when it starts getting low this weekend.