Thank you!
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I would consider replacing the cables as well. Depending on the age, the cables can start to corrode from the inside and gradually lose full conduction ability. The cable will look fine from the outside. Definitely replace them if you try to flex the cable anywhere and feel crackling.
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Originally posted by Stevemo14 View PostI have used these on multiple projects and not had an issue
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BSVQLCC...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
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I moved away from the lead automotive style lugs years ago, just too much of a PITA to mess with for me. Doesn't take much to over tighten then deform the clamp and the tend to hang up when trying to put them on or take them off. I much prefer the copper tinned cable lugs sized to the battery post and the wire gauge. The nut on the post ensures a positive connection with no chance of ending up with a mangled battery connection.I will say though the ones Stevemo uses are about the best of that style I've seen.
As to connecting additional wires directly to the battery terminals.... In most shops this is a hard no. The only thing that should have a direct connection to the battery are the main cables going to the primary ground and the primary bus bar for distribution. But to each their own.
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The only thing i have running directly off the battery is the Stereo Amps. I do have the positive fused within 12" of the battery.
I will have a relay bank connected directly to the battery soon though. It will all be fused. I will need it to be able to power the reversible pumps I am installing.
From my understanding, as long as the connections are fuse on the Positive side there should be no issues.
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