Reviving a 2006 SV211 TE

[Wicked4x4]

Wicked4x4 Wow, finally read this thread. That was quite the project, glad it's going well. Let me know when you are ready to take on those gauges, I can certainly get them working for you. If you are going to spend money on electronics I do recommend upgrading to the PP Stargazer. As I think was mentioned earlier you can set the speed to <10MPH for surfing and it is dead accurate. You can't do that with the original PP. Plus as a bonus you get a super accurate clock so you won't miss happy hour.. :-)

Are you looking for the original Polk speakers? I might have 1 of them. I swamped the front of the boat and took out one of the front Polks several years ago. I replaced the front 2 with Kickers that work well. I would probably go with that vs. trying to find the original Polks. I'm still running the Polks in the back but really need to replace them.

Thanks TechBeer. Your same boat and and electrical situations and ALL your legwork and write-ups have been invaluable to me so far. As much as I'm a DIY guy, I'll probably hit you up about the gauges...we'll be in touch on that.

As far as the speakers, all 6 of mine are shot (most play music, but it's not crisp as a couple tweeters seem broken), so I'm not looking to source original replacements. I'll likely go with some modern Polks to replace them, I think I saw them at $90 per pair, but was also looking at Kickers or Rockford Fosgates that were around $120-140 per pair. I'm on a tight budget so I won't be breaking the bank with high end Wetsounds or others...just need some tunes is all. Fortunately the amp and sub seem to be working great.

I actually just bought an AudioPipe Bluetooth adapter and wired to a 12v cigarette plug, so I plug it into the 12v in the glovebox and the RCA inputs so I can stream my phone. It worked great.

Ballast issues:
My gauges read empty and the pumps don't drain. Did some research, and again with TechBeer's ballast system writeup, and did some troubleshooting. I tested the port tank (just for access convenience) and sure enough, the sending unit is sending 242 ohms, so reading that it's empty, when i shorted the plug going to the run-dry module, the needle dropped from E to below-E, so wiring is good. Seems to me it's a failed sending unit, but I didn't remove to test further.
I was able to unplug the harness from the run-dry module, and jumper pin 12 to pin 2, then pin 3, then pin 11, and the tanks drained as they should...so at least now my tanks are empty, and I'll be able to drain them on the lake. weird that ALL 3 would have failed, but not unheard of I guess. I am not going to order replacements yet, not till I actually test all 3. Ultimately, I would like this system to work as it should, live gauges and no jumpers. I did some research and found another thread where a guy changed his belly ballast sending unit and it doesn't look fun to remove the fuel tank and have to slide the ballast back into the opening...so I'm not in a hurry on that.
For now, I'll be using the jumper.

[TechBeer]

Speakers - I did Kicker KM65 speakers with the white grills for the front about 4 years ago. They look and sound great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H3ZFGG...d_asin_title_2 My amp died about that same time so I replaced with Kicker 48KMA3604. Had to tweak levels to avoid blowing circuit breaker but works great now.

Ballast - Yeah, those float sensors are NOT very reliable. I actually developed a solid state ultrasonic version, about the size of a hockey puck, that screws into the same spot on the top of the tank(s). But I could not get it to work reliably and gave up on it. The starboard side tank is pretty accessible so that is where I've done all of my experiments. I highly recommend the bypass plug and move on to other projects. That whole "run dry" module concept was a really bad idea..... Holly actually makes a fuel sending unit based on radar, no floats at all. If that could be adapted to ballast tanks that would be the way to go. I wonder how Nautique does it today.

[Wicked4x4]

Question for the group - gel coat cracks on swim platform

We peeled off the old black rubber from swim platform and transom, we'll be replacing with some foam flooring (GatorStep/SeaDek). The old rubber was hardened and cracked, plus when we got in/out of the boat, we realized the black was rubbing off and getting tracked inside.

I know that boats gel coats get some fine cracks in them here and there, but under the rubber on the swim platform has a lot...see pics below. I'm guessing when this boat was sitting and sun was heating these black pads up, they got HOT and caused the cracks...so I would think that a lot of boats have encountered this. Again, the cracks are only under the old rubber pads, not other areas
I'm curious if y'all would be concerned with this. They are not deep, just surface and can feel with fingernail. My thoughts are that since it will be covered up fully with the adhesive on the SeaDek, this won't even be a real issue...am I wrong? should i sand this and do gel-coat patching over it all?

*please disregard the fact that the platform is only partially cleaned...it takes a lot of time and work to clean that old adhesive goo off.

[Mikeski]

Congrats on the boat, I just sold my 2005 SV211 (1200 hours) and moved up to a 2017 GS22.

I have repaired a few perfect pass gauges. The display loses connection. It wasn't hard just take it apart and see if you can fix it. Beats the heck out of replacing the system. To get it apart you need to remove the stainless bezel by unbending the crimps. When you reassemble it you will need to recrimp it.