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  • Snaptraxx Bunks

    I run a G23 on a Boatmate.
    Tidal river and fairly steep ramp.

    Carpet has already worn through in sections on the inside edge of bunks after about 15 launches and retrievals.
    This is my second G and the same happened on the 1st trailer.
    Id like to avoid replacing the carpet every few months, so I'm considering fitting Snaptraxx.
    Even when the carpet is new, it still scuffs a small area of the hull at the front just where it first slides onto the bunk, so I'm hoping that Snaptraxx cant be any worse and doesn't need replacing.

    If anyone is using Snaptraxx please share your experience with them.
    Are their any other systems out there worth considering?

  • #2
    It sounds like you are too far out of the water with your trailer. Try going deeper with the trailer and floating the boat on the trailer its much easier on the bunks . I have the snaptraxx on my pontoon trailer they are slippery so don't remove the straps before you are at the end of the ramp. They will also scuff your hull.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Nautiquehunter View Post
      It sounds like you are too far out of the water with your trailer. Try going deeper with the trailer and floating the boat on the trailer its much easier on the bunks . I have the snaptraxx on my pontoon trailer they are slippery so don't remove the straps before you are at the end of the ramp. They will also scuff your hull.
      The ramp is fairly steep and drops off quickly. Since the G has a large free board you need to ensure the guide poles are well above the rub rail to avoid scratches and scuffing to the boat sides. Since the drop off is steep its a fine line between deep enough and way too deep. Floating a G onto a trailer in a running tidal river isn't an option.
      I guess I'll have to work around high tides to minimize the consequences.

      I was more hoping to hear about Snaptraxx experience instead of a lesson on how to load.

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      • #4
        I don't know anything about snaptraxx but I do know there are better bunk carpet options than most of the trailer makers use. Having done both of my boats in the past 2 years I see expect the new carpet to wear better than the original. You might just wrap the factory carpet with an additional layer of carpet? Keep in mind the wear is usually the carpet being burned/melted as it gets very hot during a power load. I am not saying you should not power load, I only load under power and prefer not to use the float on method that many of my friends use. Another option may be to dunk the trailer or spray the bunks with water before you load the boat? I have done that in the past too when there was a hose at the ramp.

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        • #5
          I haven't used the Snaptrax personally, but have seen a BIG deck boat loaded onto a trailer with this system installed. It was scary! I thought the driver of the boat was going to launch it over the top of the tow vehicle! (Beer involved...), The trailer bunks were obviously quite a bit more slippery than the boat driver expected, and the boat really slid onto the trailer/bunks very quickly.

          Maybe the Snaptrax may be an option for the inside bunks only? I too have noticed the inside bunk carpet wearing quickly on my Boatmate trailer.
          2008 230 TE-ZR6
          1999 Pro Air Python-sold and moved away :-(

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          • #6
            I have 210, but I had issue having to power off because the boat seemed to stick to the bunk carpet. I have used bunk slides the last two trailers I have had with great success. Warning, they are slick, so do not unhook you boat from the trailer until you are in the water. Below is a link to the slides.

            http://www.overtons.com/modperl/prod...-x-15L&i=31336
            2005 210 SANTE

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            • #7
              You could try Liquid Rollers---$7-10/can. It works well.
              Previous boats:
              2015 G23
              2008 SAN 210
              2002 XStar
              1995 Sport Nautique

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              • #8
                Originally posted by philb View Post
                The ramp is fairly steep and drops off quickly. Since the G has a large free board you need to ensure the guide poles are well above the rub rail to avoid scratches and scuffing to the boat sides. Since the drop off is steep its a fine line between deep enough and way too deep. Floating a G onto a trailer in a running tidal river isn't an option.
                I guess I'll have to work around high tides to minimize the consequences.

                I was more hoping to hear about Snaptraxx experience instead of a lesson on how to load.
                Well if you knew how to load your boat then you would not need other options. I would double up on the carpet on the high wear area.
                2008 210 SANTE

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                • #9
                  Different ramp angles call for different depths for sinking the trailer which require trial and error. The G series is a serious boat with a lot of weight. It will wear on the carpet of the bunks even more than the lighter boats. As the bow engages the bunks, the angle of initial contact differs from the angle of the final resting spot of the hull. Steeper initial angles of the bow will wear the bunks more since less surface area is engaged. Based on what I have read on this thread, I would consider two actions: 1) use the snaptraxx on the bunks just in the area of highest wear, or; 2) consider a lubricant on the bunk carpet only on the areas of greatest wear. Again, you must be careful of either of these since friction will be reduced. You must be cautious of the boat, especially on a steep ramp, potentially sliding off the trailer prior to it being in the water, and of course when coming out of the water. ALWAYS attach the winch strap before pulling out.

                  From what I read in the past about snaptraxx, there are three different friction surfaces to choose from. You might consider the least friction just on the area where the wear is most severe.

                  I have launched on both very steep ramps and very shallow ramps, and the prime trailer depth varies considerably. Steep ramps generally dictate less trailer in the water to keep the bow up and prevent the stern from drifting to one side and hitting the prop on the trailer (ask me how I know!), but this causes the very problem you are experiencing. Flatter ramps allow more trailer in the water and are generally MUCH easier to launch and load from. You are not alone. Just experiment and work with it. If you find a good solution, share it on this message board. Many people experience what you are dealing with. G series compounds the issue. Best.

                  jasper

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                  • #10
                    It's a pain to do yourself and get it centered on a steep ramp. If you have another person just get them in the habit of sitting on the sun deck and holding the boat centered as you pull out.


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by xrichard View Post
                      You could try Liquid Rollers---$7-10/can. It works well.
                      BAD things can happen when using Liquid Rollers....I really don't recommend using it, a friend had a HUGE issue when using this stuff....
                      2008 230 TE-ZR6
                      1999 Pro Air Python-sold and moved away :-(

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                      • #12
                        What happened?
                        Previous boats:
                        2015 G23
                        2008 SAN 210
                        2002 XStar
                        1995 Sport Nautique

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Miljack View Post
                          BAD things can happen when using Liquid Rollers....I really don't recommend using it, a friend had a HUGE issue when using this stuff....
                          I have never used Liquid Rollers but I have heard from a few reliable sources that if you use it to only do the front 1/3 of the bunks and leave the rest as is. The rear 2/3 of the bunk should still have enough friction to keep the boat on the trailer and the front 1/3 is the main part that is dry when you are loading/unloading so that is really the only part that could use the slickness.
                          Shawn

                          1999 Black and Tan Python Powered 210

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                          • #14
                            I have heard that Pledge on the carpet works as well. It is not as permanent as liquid rollers and may help the carpet to last longer.

                            I have seen 2 G23's up close and both are on Extreme trailers. I am baffled that they use 2 by 4. All of the Mastercrafts I have seen used 2 X 6's. Wouldn't you think a big heavy boat like that deserved at least a little more wood? What size are your bunks?

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