Good idea on the left hand biz. I take a box cutter or screwdriver and place a small scratch in the paint....give 'er a good spin then 3/4 of a turn by hand which is easy to figure with the scratch visible. Should be hand tight by then.
You trick is nice but I change the filter with it all HOT and prefer removal with a wrench to protect my tender, delicate, supple hands.
AT, that works too. I started to let the filters sit on the engine overnight, because I noticed less oil ran out than if I changed the oil filter right away. Less oil in the bildge that way.
The oil was running out of the oil galley, I think. The Motorcraft FL1-A filter has a very good anti drain back valve in it.
I have found it more difficult to hold a plastic bag around the filter on a Ford engine. On a GM engine, especially with the remote filter, the plastic bag works really good.
I am actually half way through an oil change tonight. Most of the oil is out, but some is still draining. Tomorrow morning, I will put the new filter on, and put new oil in.
2018.2 Hours and counting
That's from the 1991 PCM engine manual. The 1990 manual is similar.
Originally Posted by jhiestand
I have a ZR6 and last week I fed the oil drain hose through the drain hole in the back and when I took of the end cap off to drain I got nothing??? Is there some form of petcock up under the motor?
Was the engine hot? It can take little while for the oil to drain. That is why I use a suction pump to pull the oil out. Follow your drain hose back to the oil pan if there is a petcock, you will find it. My experience, there is no petcock
Some more comments:
1. Other tricks to catch oil filter spillage is to cut down 1 liter or 2 liter soda bottles depending on filter size. Cut the top off for a disposable bucket or cut the bottom off for a disposable funnel.
2. I 've seen pictures of some of the ford engines with the tilted filter adapter...what a mess.
3. I prefer draining hot rather than sucking out hot. Draining hot gets more of the crud out. Sucking cold is doable but almost impossible. I sucked some 7 year old oil out of a 5.0 mercruiser one time. My vacuum pump and my home-made mason jar oil bong were operating at about 20" mercury vacuum. I can only imagine the mess if the jar had imploded. As soon as I got most of the old oil out, I put fresh oil in, ran it on the hose until it was hot and did it again. Then put new oil and ran it on the lake for half a day then did it again...so far so good. Brother-in-law's boat...still going. He probably hasn't changed the oil since then.
4. I like the overnight drain also. I save my 5qt oil bottle from the last change and let the oil dump out hot. While it starts, I do the filter. Come back the next day and check the volume that drained. I prime the filter plus start by pouring in the same volume that drained out. So far, spot on each time.
Thanks for all the tips and info. Is there a oil brand that is recomended or one that I should not use?
Well the oil is out and the only trouble I had was when I opened the hose nothing came out a first I looked inside and the hose was routed over a cooling hose so I rerouted it and then it worked perfect.
Changed oil & filter on my '05 211 last weekend for the first time and here's what I learned:
*Search and read all oil change related posts. This forum was invaluable for tips and suggestions.
*Run the engine for a few minutes to warm engine oil.
*The drain hose on the 211 (at least for the '05 model) is to short to reach the drain plug. Get a couple feet of 5/8" or 1/2" hose (I got clear from Home Depot), a hose clamp and attach to the end of your drain hose. After connecting, thread hose below engine to drain plug.
*At this point, you can let gravity to its thing or help it out with a pump. I read many pump reviews in addition to forum suggestions before setting on the Jabsco drill pump (West Marine has them for $30). The Jabsco was a forum recommendation and worked great. Got under the boat with my 3/8" drill, oil reservoir and connected to the oil drain hose (used a hose clamp but could be overkill). Started up the drill/pump and in about 5 minutes, all the oil was sucked out.
*As someone suggested, I used an old sock over the filter to remove and shop towels underneath. Way more oil came out of the filter than I expected but the sock and towels caught it all.
*Replaced filter with new Motorcraft FL-1A and oil with 15w-40 (little over 4 quarts).
What didn't work:
*I initially tried sucking oil from the drain hose above the engine. This approach did not work. After a few minutes of running the drill/pump, no oil.
I considered going in via the dipstick but I'm new to working with engines and saved that method as plan "c".
oil change tips
Before you install the new filter:
1) Use a sharpie marker to note the date and engine hours on the new filter. Write it in several places so it will be visible after installed.
2) Fill filter 3/4 full with new oil and wipe a few drops on the rubber gasket
3) MAKE SURE THE OLD FILTER GASKET IS OFF. Won't seal properly, big mess.
After you are finished run engine and look for leaks especially if it is your first filter change or if you are changing filter brands. Neighbor's new Prostar bilge filled w/ oil on first change after parts counter guy gave wrong cross reference on filter number.